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Thread: Does fixing driveline slack, fix jerky throttle?

  1. #1
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    Does fixing driveline slack, fix jerky throttle?

    I know driveline backlash has been death on here, but I'm becoming more and more of the opinion that it might be the cause of the horrible low speed driveability in Puma's.

    Getting on the throttle after coasting is painful, no matter how gentle I am. Its just impossible to get a smooth transition from coasting to motoring.

    It feels as though the driveline is constantly overrunning and underrunning the engine. And when you reapply throttle it takes up the slack, resulting in the annoying shunt.

    It really does make you look like a hopeless driver at low speed.

    The BAS Autobiography remap has reduced the problem, but it is still there.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The most common reason for this problem is a dragging handbrake - and it does not have to be dragging much. But transmission slack makes it worse.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Thanks John.
    It rolls on the slightest gradient, so I don't think its dragging. It would've worn the brake shoes back by now anyway if it had been dragging.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The most common reason for this problem is a dragging handbrake - and it does not have to be dragging much. But transmission slack makes it worse.

    John
    I've seen that many times,I've even seen a T/C replacement from the ''flapping'' sound they make on coast when the shoe's rub,the owner and mechanic refused to even back the hand brake off to prove my theory,anyway a wasted few grand. Pat

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    How does one go about checking if the handbrake is dragging and rectifying it if it is the cause?

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Drive a few blocks and then put your hand on the drum - if it blisters, the brake is dragging. Should be slightly cooler than the transfer case.

    Dragging can be due to adjustment - easy enough to slacken it off. Chock the front wheels, put both rears on stands, transfer and gearbox in neutral (centre diff unlocked), and turn the prop shaft by hand. Should be able to hear or feel the slightest drag. If you cannot back it off enough to stop any drag and still have a workable handbrake (apply and release brake each time you adjust it), suspect either there is oil in the brake from a leaky seal, or the expander, which is supposed to be able to move with some friction to equalise the shoes, is either rusted in place or free to slop about so that the weight of the mechanism is always resting on the lower shoe. This would be due to incorrect assembly or the spring clip broken.

    John
    Last edited by JDNSW; 1st October 2015 at 04:01 PM. Reason: typo
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Cool, another thing on my to do list.... Thanks for the info JDNSW, havent tackled this before so all new to me. Gotta do the rear ball joint soon, but any other places that make that goddamn clunking noise that I can fix then I'm all ears.
    I think someone (maybe bilbo?) in a previous post on a similar subject said something along the lines of " its all about being one with your car. Some days you are at one and it doesn't clunk. Other days not so good" Bloody true as well. Some days I get very little backlash (well little for my bus) and other days its at almost every gear change and bump.

    Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Anything that allows either axle to move in response to driving or overrun torque will show up as transmission slack. The most common ones are:-

    Ball joint on top of axle - usually a resounding metallic clunk when taking up drive (there is no rubber in this joint).

    Rear lower link - usually shows up as steering wander with torque, as it will be different each side.

    Front of lower link, either the big nut or the three bolts loose - usually a sharp click when going between drive and overrun.

    Front A-frame bushes - muffled clunk on bumps.

    Surprisingly, in my experience, problems seem to be unusual on the front axle, perhaps because there are fewer joints with much movement. Most common problem there is panhard rod bushes.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Interesting, after my first service, there is a lot more slack in the hand brake, and it seems much smoother to drive, so maybe it was binding.
    Mind you a Bas tune also occurred at the same time.
    Is not axle flanges fretting out another reason?
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  10. #10
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    Yes it has been done to death...a search will bring up plenty of results.

    Defender 2.4llt TDCi (puma) early ones are prone to the clutch failing which does cause horrific driveability.

    after that:
    *Axles worn/ excessive factory freeplay.
    *Wear in the centre diff side gear shims and incorrect selective thrust from factory.

    I've yet to do a Defender TDCi (puma) where I couldnt fix its difficult driveability.

    I call all the work a upgrade rather than a repair :P

    Regards
    Daz

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