A better idea is to electronically switch off the egr function with a remap. Don't have to go for huge torque gains etc the egr shutoff is the main reason it would be done.
Jc
I am purchasing a new Defender 90 soon and wanted to know of any successes/blunders with fitting a EGR blanking plate to it?
I am planning on keeping this thing long term like my maintenance-hungry 110 and would like to avoid pumping heat and soot back into the engine for longevities sake.
I was looking at:
EGR Blanking Plate Land Rover Puma MK7 Transit 2 2 2 4 3 2 Tdci Citroen Peugeot | eBay
Its the variant with a hole drilled to avoid triggering the mil light but not enough for the EGR to engage. Thoughts?
A better idea is to electronically switch off the egr function with a remap. Don't have to go for huge torque gains etc the egr shutoff is the main reason it would be done.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
The blanking plate on it's own won't work. The size of the hole required, so the MIL is not tripped, makes it a pointless exercise. It's too large, and you'll still get plenty of crap back through your engine.
Plenty of threads on here or DEFENDER2.NET - Index, if you have the time to search.
The only way to close the EGR is electronically through the ECU, have a look at remaps, especially as you say this one is a keeper.
You can just disconnect the plug from the EGR to turn it off, just make sure it's closed when you do it. However generally after 3 cycles the MIL will come on. If you can handle driving around with the check light constantly on, then this is your cheapest option.
Both BAS and Alive offer a great product, mine's a 2.4, and I had the city map, with EGR delete from Pete at BAS. I then blanked the EGR with a solid plate.
It will transform your 90, however from memory the 2.2's require a new ECU before you can flash the map. There was a group buy on here awhile ago, where Pete supplied the new ECU as part of the deal.
Obviously you have to be careful warranty wise, maybe someone with a 2.2 will be along shortly. But I think all they do when the vehicle goes back for servicing, is to refit the original ECU with the standard tune. Most dealers wont notice the remap is there, but if they update the ECU then there's a good chance that you lose the remap, hence the change over.
Last edited by ozy013; 1st November 2015 at 08:12 PM. Reason: ah spelling!
Thanks for the detailed response
Yes I might have to do the disconnect and cope with a mil-light initially as I will have a 5yr warranty and dont want to jeopardize that screwing with its mathematics. After that expires - then I will go the ECU route with remap. If I disable it from the word go then it be better for the engines lifespan I think.
What was the rough cost of doing the job properly with ECU?
Do I just disconnect it when the engine is cold after being off over night?
I had the EGR valve unplugged for several months after I bought mine last year until I eventually got a remap to close it.
The engine oil stays incredibly clean with it turned off.
When returning to the dealers all I do is change it back to standard tune. The ECU doesn't need to be changed back to the original.
Yeah thats right Alec. With the 2.2, the ECU needs to be electronically unlocked to enable remapping. The easiest way and the way BAS does it, is to send you a brand new ECU that he has unlocked, along with your remap. That way you still have your original untouched ECU should any anything go wrong (extremely unlikely).
Its given the 130 a lot more get up and go, especially as I installed an Allisport intercooler as well. But my main priority was closing the EGR.
OK Beery awesome, now I have a game plan.
Dont mean to be a snoop but what did the package cost you approx?
Will need to start laundering money as one of my justifications for partner in getting new 90 = wont cost as much as my 300tdi to run!
The deceit will continue until she wises up
Haha you can keep telling her all these bits and pieces are to save money.
Look its not cheap, around $1,300 for the remap, OBD Bluetooth tuning tool, and new ECU. But think of it as an investment, where the sooner you do it, the more years of benefit you will get from it.
I look at it as a preventative maintenance expense and slight fuel saving.
Have a look at the link below and you'll get a better idea of how it works.
https://secure.bellautoservices.co.u...autobiography/
Ahh Beery we think alike.
That's what I'm aiming for by doing the mod. For me in the 90 I would be happy enough with standard power and confidence the engine isn't being taxed over time with it's own poison being pumped back into it.
After driving my 300tdi for some time a standard Puma is a rocket ship
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