Oil colour after service?

**Beery** · 7th January 2016, 12:40 PM

Change your hoses and fan clutch every 100,000km if you wish, other than that, they are not a servicable item. They fail, often without warning and we have little control over when or why they go, especially when due to manufacturing quality. You can inspect them as often as you like.
Oil cleanliness, on the other hand, we have a LOT of control over so it would be silly not to pay plenty of attention to 'servicing' it.

Hard to predict an unexpected, catastrophic component failure.

**PAT303** · 7th January 2016, 01:36 PM

Beery,you said it,rad hoses fail without warning and lead to very expensive repairs or real expensive engine replacement,considering they cost around $100 for the Tdi/Td5/V8 and $50 for a fan hub I shake my head at why they are ignored yet 5000K oil changes are followed religiously by members on this site .Anyway there your vehicles and the money comes from your wallet so what ever blows your hair back. Pat

**Beery** · 7th January 2016, 02:07 PM

Well, rather than chiming in with snide remarks, maybe you could've said something along those lines in the first place. A courteous comment, directed to the relevant person/people, rather than talking 'about' them right in front of their face, would be much more helpful.

Replacing hoses and fan hubs at unnecessary intervals exposes you to just as much risk from faulty, poorly made components failing. Seen that happen plenty of times too!

**goingbush** · 7th January 2016, 03:41 PM

Interesting thread,

I bought an Iveco Daily 4x4 just over 2 years ago, Have now done 80,000 km

Its a twin turbo, 3.0 L common rail diesel by FPT not dissimilar to any other modern 4x4 Diesel engine.

Iveco state 40,000 km between services !! they don't want to see it for first service till 40,000 km

IMO opinion thats crap, I did a first service at 5000km, then self service every 10,000 km, I noticed the oil went black within the first 20-50km after each service. At 20,000km I had ECU remapped and EGR blanking plate. Now the Oil stays clean right through till 10,000km .

I also changed from LowSaps oil to HPR5 because I removed the DPF, but I firmly believe the oil is staying clean because I removed the EGR and exhaust fumes (soot) is no longer being ingested into the engine, and the clean oil has nothing to do with DPF removal / change of oil spec.

**Beery** · 7th January 2016, 05:57 PM

Yeah the EGR removal will make the biggest difference. But deleting the DPF regen cycle when you remove it will also stop oil dilution from the extra diesel used in regen. Unless its one that injects diesel straight in to the DPF of course!

**AlecW** · 7th January 2016, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by PAT303

You asked a question,I answered it,if you don't like the answer you got do your own search,it's all on here.To the original question about dirty oil there's always old oil in the engine that contaminates the new stuff the moment you start it. Pat

Really don't know how this applies to me or the question I asked. Irrelevant info and rude. Whatever

**rick130** · 7th January 2016, 06:47 PM

Originally Posted by goingbush

I also changed from LowSaps oil to HPR5 because I removed the DPF, but I firmly believe the oil is staying clean because I removed the EGR and exhaust fumes (soot) is no longer being ingested into the engine, and the clean oil has nothing to do with DPF removal / change of oil spec.

I wouldn't have stressed too much over the low SAPs oil, if it was an ACEA E6/E9 oil they are really robust and actually handle soot better than the older spec oils, but if the HPR5 diesel is a fair bit cheaper, you're in front.

**PAT303** · 7th January 2016, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by Beery

Well, rather than chiming in with snide remarks, maybe you could've said something along those lines in the first place. A courteous comment, directed to the relevant person/people, rather than talking 'about' them right in front of their face, would be much more helpful.

Replacing hoses and fan hubs at unnecessary intervals exposes you to just as much risk from faulty, poorly made components failing. Seen that happen plenty of times too!

Sorry if it was taken that way because that wasn't my intention,I was asked a direct question so gave a direct answer,the thought of not replacing a part because the new one might be faulty is a new way to look at maintenance. Pat

**PAT303** · 7th January 2016, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by AlecW

Really don't know how this applies to me or the question I asked. Irrelevant info and rude. Whatever

Alec,we are on different wave lengths here,no offence intended. Pat

**gavinwibrow** · 8th January 2016, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by PAT303

Beery,you said it,rad hoses fail without warning and lead to very expensive repairs or real expensive engine replacement,considering they cost around $100 for the Tdi/Td5/V8 and $50 for a fan hub I shake my head at why they are ignored yet 5000K oil changes are followed religiously by members on this site .Anyway there your vehicles and the money comes from your wallet so what ever blows your hair back. Pat

Pat, you are onto something here.
A few of us non experts regularly comment that it would be wonderful to know those non maintenance specified items that can be expected to fail during a range of time/km, and for a small(ish) cost could be replaced well prior to anticipated failure date.
I for one would be happy to pay for such a list to supplement the official LR documentation, but except for items specifically mentioned (like your post here), don't know what I'm looking for.

Food for thought??

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