Thread: Best Rear Diff Lock for Puma 110

'Best' is a bit subjective.
If I had all the dollars in the world, I'd love a modified unimog setup. Or do something tricky with the dana diffs that come in a crate from the states.

Plenty of people here are using stock diffs with ARB / Harrop e lockers.
Can you elaborate what you mean by your current diff is 'done'? The lockers are just the centre (not the ring and pinion gears) which means if you've got other issues, the issues will still be there once you get locked.

Thanks. Not entirely sure what the issue is yet, getting driveline shunt, metal flecks in the diff oil, ends of the axles were worn. My mechanic is going to pull the diff apart in the new year so we can figure out what's going on. Just thinking while he does that it'd be worthwhile putting a locker option in before it goes back together.

If you want air lockers go the Ashcroft lockers. They will probably be cheaper landed in Oz than buying the elockers as well.

Better design than the ARB version fixing all the issues. Will eventually get these for my D2 TD5.

Cheers, Chris

The Ashcroft Diff-pegging looks interesting.

Originally Posted by Marty90

The Ashcroft Diff-pegging looks interesting.

Marty, what is this 'diff-pegging' you speak of?

For some reason I can't add the link but if you go to the Ashcroft website you'll find the link to the Diff-pegging there.It keeps the crown-wheel in mesh with the pinion.

Originally Posted by buxton

Hi all,
wondering if anyone has fitted a Harrop e-locker or ARB Air Locker to their Puma. The rear diff in mine is about done and I'm thinking I may as well replace with a locking version. I've just had Max-Drive axles installed - want to create the absolute strongest set-up I can.
Any thoughts?

I've fitted plenty of the Harrop e-locker (its an Eaton e-locker anyway) to Jeeps, both front and rears, they are top quality and tough. I like the e-locker over the air lockers as its a simplistic setup, no air lines to worry about!

The disadvantage of the e-locker is (once already locked) if you move from driving forward to driving in reverse there is a small point as you reverse that the e-locker dis-engages, then as you continue to reverse the e-locker re-engages. And the same if you then go from reverse to forward.

I can explain in great detail as to why this happens, but the very basics are the 3 locking pins are out of the beveled section on the locking ring (locked) when you reverse they move into the beveled section on the locking ring (dis-engaged) then move out of the beveled section again onto the flat (locked again).

Personally on any traction control vehicle I'd go the tru-trac or the Ashcroft version.... I think they are better bang (or lock) for buck.

Regards
Daz

You will still be left with a rubbish diff though...a Salisbury conversion with a trutrack would be the strongest for the $$$ just have to locate an ABS diff from a 1999 to 2002 defender...and get the tailshaft shortened.

Jc