Reply With Quotepull the spade connector off at the back of the fuel injection pump.
Fossicker
Hi there everyone!
I have a 97 defender 130 300TDi.
It had a turbo timer installed before I adopted it.
The car started to continue to run on after the key has been turned to the "off" position and removed. Could not stop it with the "RED" cut off button on the timer.
I have removed the timer (BES 725TT model). There were two wires (blue and red) running from the module to the back of the ignition barrel. The were connected in series. The wires were simply cut.
It's not running on from turbo oil.
I have to stall it to stop it.
I have tried turning it off and loading the electrics to draw residual current down but makes no difference.
There is a definite clicking coming from the fuel solenoid when energised.
Is there anything else I can disconnect to force it to stop?
Thanks in advance!
Master
pull the spade connector off at the back of the fuel injection pump.
RoverLord
if pulling the spade off doesnt stop it you have a solenoid failure, they can be "entertaining" to remove.
if that stops it you have an electrical gremlin, most likely to be the turbo timer control relay sticking in the engergised position if yours is one of the units that uses a relay driven off the control box.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Fossicker
OK, I have removed and cleaned the full stop solenoid, dropped and found the spring!�� And put back together. All seems to be good now. Could be a sign of either particulates in the fuel line somehow, or a "getting ready to fail" solenoid.
See how long it lasts!
��
Thanks for the quick replies!
RoverLord
it can be caused by snot, but if its gotten that far you're about to have a whole new world of injector/pump problems.
if its got fine metalic particles in it then youve got failure of internal hard facing coming apart in the pump.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
if it is suspected snot or other gunge, a super expensive fuel filter in the tank outlet line is a good cheap investment for a while. will prove it one way or the other.
RoverLord
given that the vehicle has a sedimentor and a filter you dont need the extra filtration, checking the sedimentor will tell you if you have snot or not.
Diesel Snot, Here it is IN person.
those guys at landrover that used to be engineers before they got all accounatized and middle managed were pretty switched on when it came to looking after the fuel system. you only need more than what they put in if you're doing something they werent expecting.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks