I have some vins PM for one.
I think that was your original question.
Grille, grille!
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I have some vins PM for one.
I think that was your original question.
To Dervish particularly: Need to get mate to take photo of my wire mesh grill and put in on computer. I note you have also had your bull bar galvanised. A possible future improvement for my ARB one after extra little welding improvements I have in mind. My main LR galvanising project (by Furphys at Shepparton) so far has been a dozen Wolf rims plus collection of wheel nuts. For this threads were filled with silastic and wire poked through. A bit tighter fit in 1 1/16" and 27 mm sockets than non galvanised nuts that look grotty when rusted. See you already have what I intend to look for sometime soon. ie Metal headlight surrounds as per late S2A and military. My plastic ones are reduced in size after busted bits cut off.. Also cut holes in them around parker and indicator lights so they can be removed to get at headlight screws much more easily. Something idiot designer obviously didn't think of.
While getting photos organised, need to get a couple of innards of standard transfer box for to complete material for another posting you are one who took interest in. For 6 months /5,000 km I have run an LT230 transfer box with 1.27:! and 4.21:! ratios. (Standard in Defender 300Tdi 1.41 and 3.32) Basically one with 1.003 high out of mid '80's Rangie with Torque Flite. I had a new input gear designed and cut. 22 teeth which drives the 44 tooth high range gear on intermediate cluster - like in a Series transfer box back to front. Standard is 26 tooth input driving 41 tooth middle gear on cluster. Overall improvement for my purposes. Now rarely ever go to change into 5th high when already in it I like slower low first and reverse. Only downside so far is still a sometimes annoying gear whine at high speed. If does not wear in and cure itself need to consider special oil or insulation to try and quieten it.
This is mine,
I can't lay claim to the design or original construction, but I cut and brazed the weldmesh to the front of the angle uprights where it was originally welded to the rear.
Undo the wingnuts and the front half folds out so you can sandwich some air conditioning filter media for dirt and seed protection.
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So by the same reasoning, every manufacturer of aftermarket parts who has modelled a likeness off a genuine LR part, and sold said product cheaper than Land Rover Australia is also guilty of misrepresenting the brand identity?!
The bloke just wants to buy a grille, and if he can get it out of the service department, then all the power to him. The bloke on the service counter just needs to ask the right questions, and the buyer needs to answer them satisfactorily, money exchanges hands, and everyone is happy.
He might ruffle the feathers of the special edition crowd, but that's the risk vs reward the OP would need to consider.
I've bought parts out of an australian dealership using and australian VIN for an import model that they wouldn't honor the VIN number for, even though I had the correct part number for them to order, which was identical between models (the joys of owning a jap import). Realistically, the guy at the computer is trying to check that the part the customer asks for is compatible with the vehicle they say they own.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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