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Thread: Loss of power and LOTS of smoke

  1. #21
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    You can check the injection timing by locking the crank at tdc and inserting the injection timing pin.
    No need to pull the front cover if you are confident the cam timing is ok.
    Undo the 3 m10 bolts on the injector pump pulley and make the pin fit by slightly rotating the 22mm nut in the middle if the injector pump pulley.
    Once the pin is in you need to apply pressure to the 22mm nut as you tighten the 3x m10 bolts.
    The timing pin needs to freely move in and out.

    Too much advance does cause hard starts as you described. Usually followed by plumes of white smoke.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  2. #22
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    Jul 2013
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    Perth WA
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    So, climbed under car to remove the plug from the bellhousing so i can set tdc and find diesel dripping from it.....WTF! Follow the trail back and i find it is coming from the fuel pump i had serviced and refitted 12 months ago or so. Gasket has failed.
    1465285456410.jpg
    Hopefully the pic comes out and you can see the broken gasket poking out.
    Anyone had this happen before? Am i likely to have somehow done it when i replaced the timing belt (cant see how as i didnt touch the pump itself)? Or is it possible that this was the cause of my original problem and why i cant start it now?

    Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

  3. #23
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    Well you wouldn't know it but a friend of work had this happen to his disco. Lots of white smoke and losing fuel. Broken fuel line from lift pump. Atomising fuel and giving the appearance of smoke. Not knowing much about that pump pictured some pumps that gasket is actually a diaphragm. If that is damaged it may not be working at all and not only is it not lifting fuel it's probably suckling in air.

  4. #24
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    Its a bosch ve pump. Its the sucking in air that makes me wonder if the gasket failed and caused the original problem. Guess i need to find out if it is a gasket or a diaphragm and then go about replacing it.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

  5. #25
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    Should mention the leak is from where the injection pump joins up with the back of the timing case.
    From what i can tell from looking at the worshop manual it is just a gasket.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

  6. #26
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    The gasket is paper so is non critical.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    Should mention the leak is from where the injection pump joins up with the back of the timing case.
    From what i can tell from looking at the worshop manual it is just a gasket.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app
    Yes, but that gasket does not hold any fuel in.

    If there is fuel coming from there then the main shaft seal has failed, and possibly filled the timing housing up with fuel.

    Warranty with that service and refit?

    Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

  8. #28
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    If there was a warranty it will be pretty close to expiring if it hasnt already, I will have to dig up the receipt and check the date. Was thinking exactly that, that the fuel must be coming from the internals of the pump. Will have a good look over it again today after work to make sure that is where it is coming from.
    When I did the timing belt the case was bone dry so wouldnt have thought that it would fail just by me trying to kick the engine over a few times, but given all the other dramas I had have with this car in the last few years, it wouldnt surprise me either. Hopefully it is something simple, like me being a idiot and not tightening up a fuel line properly, but don't think it is...
    Will be taking the timing cover off again in the next few days (hopefully) so will find out if there is any fuel in there soon enough.

  9. #29
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    Good idea to check. It could be the main line in from the filter and it is just trickling over the side. Fingers crossed.
    The seal would not fail just by trying to start the motor, unless it has sat dry for an extended period of course, could also just be a bad coincidence

    Depends on what they did during the service anyway, if they didnt dismantle the pump then its unlikely they would have touched the shaft seal.

    Wading plug in the timing housing? Bit quicker than taking off the whole housing.

    When you do strip the timing housing give the fuel pump pulley a wiggle. It should have very little to no movement. I think in the in/out axis it should be zero. A quick search will give the answer.

    Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

  10. #30
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    Pump was fully dismantled and everything was replaced when they serviced the pump - all seals etc. Need to take the timing cover off anyway as Im pretty sure I screwed something up when I replaced the belt, hence why it wont start - not entirely surprised as it is my first attempt at doing a timing belt so wasn't expecting it to all be smooth sailing.
    Will definitely check for movement on the fuel pump pulley. Don't remember there being any when I refitted the belt last weekend, but wasn't really checking for it it either

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