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Thread: Puma 110 won't start after transfer case overhaul

  1. 3rd April 2016, 08:22 AM #1
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    Puma 110 won't start after transfer case overhaul

    G'day all,
    I have a mate's 2010 2.4 Defender in my shed, it has been in dry dock for the past 2 weeks during which time we have overhauled the transfer case and fitted the modified gearbox - transfer adapter kit.
    We finished putting the car back together at about 1am last night but now the car is refusing to start. Dash lights come on but NOT the glow-plug lamp, the engine cranks but does not fire.
    First thing we tried was locking / unlocking to reset the immobiliser, have done that several times including leaving it locked for several minutes.
    Checked all the fuses and there is one under the driver's seat that is separate from the fuse box and all on it's own, a 15a fuse, that blows when the key is turned to the running position. The diagrams in the owners handbook give no hint that this fuse even exists, much less what the circuit is.
    We pulled the floor panel thinking we may have pinched a wire between the g'box and t'fer but all wiring is intact there.
    Our next plan (I called it quits at 2am after 16 hours) is to check the wiring under the bonnet to see if we damaged anything, e.g. on the firewall, when we lowered the back of the transfer case for removal.
    The other nagging thought in my mind is that I welded a puller onto the gearbox output shaft as per Ashcroft's instruction sheet, battery was disconnected throughout the job but hoping I have not fried anything. Earth of the welder was attached to the puller.
    Would appreciate any helpful input, mate needs his car and I want my shed back.
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  2. 3rd April 2016, 08:39 AM #2
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    Do the pumas have a inertia switch under the bonnet If so have you tried that it could be that
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  3. 3rd April 2016, 08:46 AM #3
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    That wouldn't blow a fuse though...
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  4. 3rd April 2016, 09:09 AM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    That wouldn't blow a fuse though...
    No it would`nt but a pinched wire could . It is all about elimination of the easy
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  5. 3rd April 2016, 02:43 PM #5
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    No wiser after a few hours spent searching for damaged wires etc. We have stripped the loom at the ECU looking for anywhere we may have pinched or broken a wire by tilting the engine, nothing suspicious. I don't think there is an inertia switch but, as mentioned, this would not explain a fuse repeatedly blowing. I am out of ideas and we are desperate for any advice.
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  6. 3rd April 2016, 02:44 PM #6
    PAT303
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    You put the earths back on?. Pat
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  7. 3rd April 2016, 02:44 PM #7
    PAT303
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    Is it getting fuel?. Pat
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  8. 3rd April 2016, 03:31 PM #8
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    Yup thise 2x little earth wires on the rhside of the transfer case ate critical if they aren't connected to the case there is no earthing for ecu etc etc. The main relay under the drivers seat is sometimes a problem and not seeing the glow lamp on is one of the symptoms . Try jiggling the relays arounf and see if it starts. I have had quite a few with this prpblem. End up actually disassembling the plug and crimping the frmale connectors a little so they can make proper contact. Have even seen one all melted from huge volt drop....

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  9. 3rd April 2016, 06:37 PM #9
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    Thanks Justin, certainly the earth wires on the right-hand side of the transfer case were refitted when it all went back together but I will double-check that they have a good connection. I'll also try jiggling the relay connections- which is the 'main' relay?
    The 15a fuse that is on it's own little holder under the seat is the one that blows when the ignition switch is turned on- can anyone tell me what it is the fuse for? I could not find it on the wiring diagrams. If I pull this fuse on my own car, it will not even crank- so there is something different happening here. Whilst investigating it this afternoon I have found that it has battery voltage switched on with ign on one side, and the other side has zero resistance to earth- which makes me think that it is a wiring short somewhere but I am well aware that this electricity is funny stuff.
    Anyway will check that earth business first- gives me a direction to start looking which is encouraging.
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  10. 3rd April 2016, 06:42 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Is it getting fuel?. Pat
    Pat I have to assume that it is not getting fuel, but whether it is a supply (i.e. power to the pump) issue or an injector issue I do not know- I don't have a means to measure fuel rail pressure and I believe they run several thousand psi at the rail; is there some way i can check this?
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