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Thread: Yes, another "I'm thinking of getting a Defender" thread. (plz help)

  1. #1
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    Post Yes, another "I'm thinking of getting a Defender" thread. (plz help)

    Howdy all!

    Got a few questions so please be patient and understanding as Im new to the 4x4 & diesel world. However somewhat mechanically sane.

    So, it happens to be that a car i always hated with a passion is now somehow looking to me like the most beautiful thing ever made! So I'm pondering about getting one.

    Lets say on a $15k budget as a start to buy the 4 door hard top rig.

    I travel to the city a fair but so car would see %85 urban trekking. Now i know these cars are no Lexus with comfort, but the iconical raw brutal nature of the car is very appealing.

    1) What year/model is considered the most "reliable" if maintained well by previous lovers/owners?

    2) I have visited ex-army auctions and have spotted they sell crate motors (Turb, Diesel). Have many people had a good run with them? OR are they a %100 rebuilders?

    3) Which ones came with power-steering and air-con ?

    4) I have researched known body rust problems which i know to look for, but can't pin point on the mechanical issues to look for.

    5) What are gearboxes on these like, fragile or 50/50 or pretty good ?(6sp/4sp)

    6) I can see that front seats are pretty easy to swap, however have found no info in regards the rears.... what have been found as a good replacement so far?

    7) Reading up about road noise, tyre noise and what ever else noise, if whole cabin gets soundproofed with dynamat or alike product, how noticeable does it cut out the circus ?

    8) I'm in Sydney, is there any local shows/meets etc where i can have a sticky beak and a good geez/chat with local owners?

    .... I think it's about it for now.

    Thanks in advance for those willing to reply to these noobalicious questions.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    You've got to love them- warts and all.
    Modifying it to something it isn't will just be missing the point.

    Get in one, drive it, and think about it for a while. Rinse and repeat until you know for certain if its your thing (one way or another). It's a polarizing vehicle.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Howdy all!

    Got a few questions so please be patient and understanding as Im new to the 4x4 & diesel world. However somewhat mechanically sane.

    So, it happens to be that a car i always hated with a passion is now somehow looking to me like the most beautiful thing ever made! So I'm pondering about getting one.

    Lets say on a $15k budget as a start to buy the 4 door hard top rig. I think you might hard pressed to find one in that price range.

    I travel to the city a fair but so car would see %85 urban trekking. Now i know these cars are no Lexus with comfort, but the iconical raw brutal nature of the car is very appealing.

    1) What year/model is considered the most "reliable" if maintained well by previous lovers/owners? Generally 200tDi or 300dTi's it seems though we have a Td5 and is reliable for us.

    2) I have visited ex-army auctions and have spotted they sell crate motors (Turb, Diesel). Have many people had a good run with them? OR are they a %100 rebuilders? 4BD1T are as reliable as any, very noisy though, but all defenders as very noisy generally

    3) Which ones came with power-steering and air-con ? Power steering in an optional extra with ex-military vehicles and Forget the air con it only cools your knees

    4) I have researched known body rust problems which i know to look for, but can't pin point on the mechanical issues to look for.

    5) What are gearboxes on these like, fragile or 50/50 or pretty good ?(6sp/4sp) Have had no problems with ours.

    6) I can see that front seats are pretty easy to swap, however have found no info in regards the rears.... what have been found as a good replacement so far?

    7) Reading up about road noise, tyre noise and what ever else noise, if whole cabin gets soundproofed with dynamat or alike product, how noticeable does it cut out the circus ?

    8) I'm in Sydney, is there any local shows/meets etc where i can have a sticky beak and a good geez/chat with local owners?

    .... I think it's about it for now.

    Thanks in advance for those willing to reply to these noobalicious questions.

    Cheers.
    There are Pro and Cons for every vehicle. Land Rover, you love them or hate them, several here love for their pleasures, and hate them for their faults. You decide.

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  4. #4
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    Thanks for that, so which years saw 200tDi or 300dTi's ...

    Edit: Also if the 200/300 spit the dummy, how hard is it to install the 4BDiT ?? Any wiring dramas or engine mount modifications required?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Thanks for that, so which years saw 200tDi or 300dTi's ...

    Edit: Also if the 200/300 spit the dummy, how hard is it to install the 4BDiT ?? Any wiring dramas or engine mount modifications required?
    200tdi 92-93, 300tdi 94-98 (roughly). To install a 4BD1 (or /T) you preferably use a jig to install engine mounts, there are gearbox differences as well but the 4BD1 can be used with the R380 (300 tdi gearbox) as well as the LT95, the earlier LT77 gearbox not really recommended. There are no wiring issues (no computers in any of them). There are experts around Sydneywho do this stuff

  6. #6
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    200's are getting old. Go for a 300Tdi. Fabulous engine. Or even a TD5!

    They are noisy. They just are. Dynamat might give a small reduction but they will never be 'car' quiet.

  7. #7
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    if you want a 4bd1T, I would look for a 'county'. It predates the 300tdi 'defender', but is essentially the same body/chassis and was built with the 4bd1 motor as standard.( It has a slightly different firewall, and the perentie style door handles) all panels and parts are interchangeable with the defender.

    Many of them will have had a Turbo added by their owners.

    The motor is pretty indestructable. It came with a 4 speed manual gearbox that also has a good reputation.

    The county will be cheaper, so if you have a limited budget, you can throw all your leftover $$ at it ( you will need to, but its part of the fun)

    Don't replace the defender front seats - you can simply replace the foam and covers with a very cost effective replacement kit ( look at paddockspares.com)

    The front seats have removable bases - so you dont want to put in a seat that cant remove the base.

    Treat anything sold at the auctions as potential scrap metal. The 4db1 motor can be rebuilt, but that is not a simple task if you dont have the tools or the workshop.

    The guys that specialise on the perentie builds in Sydney are here:

    Welcome to KLR Automotive - KLR Automotive

  8. #8
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    infact theres an excellent example of what Im referring to for sale in the markets section:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/vehicles-s...ueensland.html

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy130 View Post
    infact theres an excellent example of what Im referring to for sale in the markets section:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/vehicles-s...ueensland.html

    Great info Andy, big thanks!

    Just wondering, since the engine is non turbo, by fitting turbo what does it do with compression. Would i need to pull the motor apart before the bolt-on or are these engines same as turbo versions ?

    Also, a silly question... 84 or 98 , are all external panels still identical for interchange purposes ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Great info Andy, big thanks!

    Just wondering, since the engine is non turbo, by fitting turbo what does it do with compression. Would i need to pull the motor apart before the bolt-on or are these engines same as turbo versions ?

    Also, a silly question... 84 or 98 , are all external panels still identical for interchange purposes ?
    The bolt-on turbo kit can be fitted simply to a non-turbo engine, around $3k for the kit, up to $5k fitted.

    The factory turbo engine was slightly different but the bolt-on conversion of a standard engine works fine (I've got one). Have a chat with KLR.

    The second-hand engines in the grays sales are just that - they have been removed from vehicles for a reason - sometimes simple, sometimes catastrophic.

    Panels are generally similar shape and fit, I think the metal and the thickness has changed over time. Modern (post 2006) steel doors are regarded as superior by some people for various reasons.

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