Thread: Puma Diff rebuild

Originally Posted by Marty90

what about diff pegging?

On a 20,000km old vehicle?? Shouldn't be necessary. My sals now has some serious km on it as it has been in 3 vehicles now, 2 of them mine, and haven't replaced a bearing yet.

Jc

Put a e locker in it, hd axels and flanges all round and its good to go .
The P38 is a setup issue, once sorted you should not have any issues with it.
I learnt a lot of this after having 3 rear diffs. Get it rebuilt properly and forget the need to worry about it.

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Still rubbish design. Nothing can fix that. But hey we've been here before...😕

Jc

[QUOTE=justinc;2592699]Still rubbish design. Nothing can fix that. But hey we've been here before...😕

I think once setup correctly its a good diff, the bowler vehicles run 170-180hp with 470-500nm of torque and do not have any issues......

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Its common, drain the diff fluid at 30K on a Defender TDCi (puma) and the oil will be black.

If they are fitting a diff lock, e-locker etc then its normal to allow for new bearings during the install, both pinion and carrier.

2 weeks wait for a bearing, how ridiculous...
Any Timken bearing dealing will have both the pinion and carrier bearings in stock.

Regards
Daz

Thanks Daz.
The new bearings were Timken so now have new carrier and pinion bearings. Will check the oil regularly to see how it goes.

E-Locker install by Harrop was first class. Great to deal with and they followed a long list of my requests to the letter. I did the switch install using a Mulgo sourced diff lock switch so looks factory and no dash holes. No compressor or airlines to worry about. Now to try it out.

Originally Posted by Marty90

what about diff pegging?

Pegging provides support to the crownwheel to prevent it flexing away from the pinion under extreme loads. The short pinion that Justin has brought up is a different problem.

The Ashcroft locker is a far better choice than the ARB. The ARB locker for this model has a design flaw that causes failures.

Regardless of what gets done to the P38 diff (the rear diff used in late model Defender TD5 and all TDCi (puma)) it isnt going to be as robust as the Salisbury rear diff it replaced.

The Salisbury is a Dana 60 just without the Dana 60 original axles, they are a known reliable just about bullet proof diff.

I just can't justify the cost nor can most customers in changing a rear end of a Defender over to a Salisbury diff, but if you want bullet proof then its the way to go.

Regards
Daz

P.S the Harrop E-Locker are a great bit of kit and have fitted to many Jeeps over the years

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Regardless of what gets done to the P38 diff (the rear diff used in late model Defender TD5 and all TDCi (puma)) it isnt going to be as robust as the Salisbury rear diff it replaced.

The Salisbury is a Dana 60 just without the Dana 60 original axles, they are a known reliable just about bullet proof diff.

I just can't justify the cost nor can most customers in changing a rear end of a Defender over to a Salisbury diff, but if you want bullet proof then its the way to go.

Regards
Daz

P.S the Harrop E-Locker are a great bit of kit and have fitted to many Jeeps over the years

I'm in the opposite camp Daz, I have a hard time justifyingthe cost of rebuilding and locking a p38 diff that will fail again in the future. Especially for big tyred, loaded, touring and working defenders. My latest 'upgrade' is retubing the big uni frint tailshafts to fit the rear of defenders, especially 130s. The national parks one we work on here spends its time heavily loaded with a fire fightingunit etc and had alreadyspread a rear shaft yoke...😮