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Thread: Where to obtain door seals / rubbers for Defender 130?

  1. #11
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    At say $36-ish per door using DIY pinchweld vs $45 for 'proper' door seals the first option doesn't seem all that good.

    The 'proper' ones would more likely give a better end result.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  2. #12
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    I fitted these to a MY10. I assume they would work on pre MY07 but can't be sure. they are a league above the factory issue for MY10.

    Britcar (UK) Ltd


    Part numbers are:


    1 x LR029307, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


    1 x LR029308, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


    2 x LR029309, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (Front Doors)
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  3. #13
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    The main door seals are interchangable. Any old part numbers have most likely been superceeded, so same part number for all defenders. I bought pattern seals before throwing them away and getting genuine. If you want doors that close properly, pay the premium!

    Got mine from island4x4. Best price at the time

    Puma bottom seals need holes in your frame to hook in clips. I use both old and new type bottom seals on the front doors, one on sill and one on door bottom - double seal!

  4. #14
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    I haven't done this yet.

    SO just to clarify - Puma rubbers WILL fit Tdi Defender - just neees some holes drilled to attach the seals?

    And where's the best place to buy these days?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  5. #15
    Trout is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Be careful what brand you buy for the main door seal - not the bottom one. I bought some cheapies for my tdi and could not close the door with any amount of adjusting. They had a stiff insert at the bend near the striker. The door would just bounce of this and not latch. I bought some from Bearmach and door closes no problem they are much softer and have no insert. I would get genuine seals if you can find any for a good price. The puma seals are the same.

    For the bottom seal I retrofitted late model puma seals to the door. Involves drilling out some rivets but easy to do and work better than the body mounted seals.

  6. #16
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Do you have a link to the bearmach ones?
    Also would you go oem over bearmach if available?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  7. #17
    Trout is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Not sure how to post links here. The Bearmach site is pretty average to use as the part descriptions are terrible so its a bit of a lottery sometimes. I had a look and I am pretty sure it was part no BR 1037 that I got. Just called right seal. They also have the puma lower seal you can retrofit to a tdi. Lower front door weatherstrip LR029309.

    Re OEM. Yes probably if I could get some at a reasonable price. Nothing wrong with the Bearmach ones so far but suspect that they won't be a durable as the originals were. However you can buy a lot of the bearmach ones for the price of OEM.

  8. #18
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    Which ones stop the bloody squeak? It drives me mad. The only thing that seems to help is Lanolin spray. Trouble is the 130 is starting to smell like a shearing shed
    Chenz
    I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member

    Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
    Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender

  9. #19
    Trout is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chenz View Post
    Which ones stop the bloody squeak? It drives me mad. The only thing that seems to help is Lanolin spray. Trouble is the 130 is starting to smell like a shearing shed
    None of mine squeak....but then again after driving my defender for about 20 years they could be playing one of Bach's Symphonies and I wouldn't hear a thing!

  10. #20
    VladTepes's Avatar
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    The doors of mine do have a seal fitted to the bottom of the door, and not to the floor /sill.
    It's a 95 so I assume from what's being said, that's aftermarket.
    It looks old (and isn't very flexible) so perhaops its just a bit of generic rubber seal a previous owner fitted....

    I'll have a look at the Bearmach site and the part number you mentioned as a starting point. Thanks Trout.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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