Thread: Dirty Diesel? / Best Second Filter for Puma Defender?

A fuel filter with a lower particular size and a higher efficiency, is better.

And also
My puma is tuned with bas 170bhp. It will "require" a cleaner fuel.....than standard. And hence my decision to install additional filter. (This is my interpretation from the army g wagon brochure that says the g240 engine is detuned to suit the quality of fuel.

So I am guessing it is quite possible the particulars under 5 micro will still cause quite a bit of damage to the combustion chamber lining of a common rail engine?Or piston? Particularly so when the engine is under heavy load?
It may not affect the performance but the longevity of the engine?

Originally Posted by martnH

A fuel filter with a lower particular size and a higher efficiency, is better.

And also
My puma is tuned with bas 170bhp. It will "require" a cleaner fuel.....than standard. And hence my decision to install additional filter. (This is my interpretation from the army g wagon brochure that says the g240 engine is detuned to suit the quality of fuel.

So I am guessing it is quite possible the particulars under 5 micro will still cause quite a bit of damage to the combustion chamber lining of a common rail engine?Or piston? Particularly so when the engine is under heavy load?
It may not affect the performance but the longevity of the engine?

Tune does not care about the particlular size, The HP pump & injectors don't know what tune you have , The HP pump is most prone to damage from particles greater than 5 micron no matter if you have a Stage 1, 2 or no tune.

Originally Posted by martnH

A fuel filter with a lower particular size and a higher efficiency, is better.

And also
My puma is tuned with bas 170bhp. It will "require" a cleaner fuel.....than standard. And hence my decision to install additional filter. (This is my interpretation from the army g wagon brochure that says the g240 engine is detuned to suit the quality of fuel.

So I am guessing it is quite possible the particulars under 5 micro will still cause quite a bit of damage to the combustion chamber lining of a common rail engine?Or piston? Particularly so when the engine is under heavy load?
It may not affect the performance but the longevity of the engine?

*Sorry to say, but your tune (as with any tune, regardless of brand) will have a greater effect on reducing the longevity of your engine.
*(As a very broad statement) Damage isnt to the combustion chamber etc etc, the damage will occur to your fuel system, namely the high pressure side, when you are talking pressures of 3,000psi upto say 45,000psi small particles of dirt become like sand blasting the internal components.

Thanks.
Say, the tune will kill 5 years off the engine (it's a trade off between longevity and performance) Will the secondary fuel filter save two years out of the five?

I always thought the reason why JLR detune the tdci engines in a defender (compare to one in a transit) is because of safety but as well as bad fuel they presume defender owners will use if travelling in remote areas.

What is your opinion on the filters?

Cheers

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*Sorry to say, but your tune (as with any tune, regardless of brand) will have a greater effect on reducing the longevity of your engine.
*(As a very broad statement) Damage isnt to the combustion chamber etc etc, the damage will occur to your fuel system, namely the high pressure side, when you are talking pressures of 3,000psi upto say 45,000psi small particles of dirt become like sand blasting the internal components.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

I actually like this setup as on a 2.4lt Defender TDCi (puma) it will give you a simple way to prime the fuel system.
In fact I use a aftermarket alloy fuel filter head that has a primer on early model Jeeps diesels (as they suffer the same thing you mention, and at $300) that is round $50 and uses the same filter as the previous model Defender TD5 (which is used on a lot of diesels) In the pic is a Baldwin BF7970

Dazza,

Would love to see where within the engine bay u installed that Aux Fuel Filter/primer from the early model Jeep ??


On the missus Prado D4d, I installed a Racor Aux Fuel Filter that filters down to 2 microns and installed it before the Original (OEM) Fuel Filter. Mainly did this for a couple of reasons (1) Geniune Toyota Filters were very expensive at the time (2) I had access to good quality filters at a very good price. I had to make sure that it had a high flow rate as well which if I remember correctly is around or a bit over a 100ltrs/hr. I've never had any fuel issues over the 190,000kms we have put on the Prado and usually change the Aux Filter approx every 30k depending on where we have been....

I'd like to install a Aux Fuel Filter on my Tdci 2.4 as well, but after reading posts here and seeing that u have to put it under the car mounted on the chassis, I'm not really sure its worth the effort, instead, just change out the filter more regularly & carry more filters when touring....

I've been told the 2.4's don't have a pump in the tanks so when it comes to changing the OEM Fuel Filters, what do people do to prime the fuel system after a fuel filter replacement? Is there a trick to it to get the car running properly again?

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*Sorry to say, but your tune (as with any tune, regardless of brand) will have a greater effect on reducing the longevity of your engine.
*(As a very broad statement) Damage isnt to the combustion chamber etc etc, the damage will occur to your fuel system, namely the high pressure side, when you are talking pressures of 3,000psi upto say 45,000psi small particles of dirt become like sand blasting the internal components.

How much is this outweighed by the new tune if it switches of the EGR?

Originally Posted by Robmacca

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I've been told the 2.4's don't have a pump in the tanks so when it comes to changing the OEM Fuel Filters, what do people do to prime the fuel system after a fuel filter replacement? Is there a trick to it to get the car running properly again?

I have a racor 230r primary water trap on 2008 Puma, My was mounted near fuel tank and inline before the LR fileter and has alarm etc but now have seem them mounted on bulkhead for easy access, when i changed filter(S) I just filled them up with diesel to the top,screwed them on and it started both times. Racor has a hand primer as well, I have also helped a person prime a Puma by sealing petrol tank hole by placing a CD disc over the fuel tank entry, placing air hose in the hole in the CD and the air pressure pushed diesel through the lines and primed the system to the rail on the engine and we just closed the bleed valve off once air bubbles stopped coming through and it started

Originally Posted by goingbush

If your worried about water in fuel don't wait for a light, just crack the drain on the filter & the water comes out before the diesel. All standard equipment - no aux filter needed.

That said Ive never had any water in the fuel of any of my 4x4's , in 35 years ,( not even the one I submerged ). Regular filter changing will deal with any water that condenses in your tank.

The above pretty well sums up my thoughts.
*I am a believer of improving a Land Rover design.
*But I hate cluttering a Land Rover with supposed improvements.
*I really hate "improvements" that make other simple tasks such as doing a service harder/slower.