If your pulling out rear seats remove seat box as well opens up a wealth of space
Cheers Paul
Hi all,
A couple of things condensed into a single thread for my 130...
I have a 130 HCPU I'm setting up for long range touring. I would like to put a full-length roof rack up top + roof tent, and have come across the Hannibal racks, (which are nice), but I cannot seem to come up with any other options? I did see Windcheetah and Patriot names mentioned on this forum elsewhere, but cannot find any of these options. Are there any others?
Secondarily, I'm tearing out my rear seats to build pull out drawers (rear-doors will open to 90deg), fridge, cooker & storage. I'm assuming this has been done before and wondered if anyone had any links or images to similar setups?
-p
If your pulling out rear seats remove seat box as well opens up a wealth of space
Cheers Paul
There's Hannibal....or custom made, or as with mine, I have a Hannibal rack over the cab and just a set of bars I made to mount the roof top tent over the tray
Phoenix Creek.jpg
as for rear set ups, after you remove seats and seat box you could install one of these:
STAINLESS STEEL CAMPER TRAILER SLIDE OUT KITCHEN. 2 DRAWERS, SINK, TAP | eBay
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
for a HCPU for touring set up PM Cammo. He has done it all and revised several times so knows how to configure a HCPU.
for a rear seat storage and touring set up PM Wayne (Nugge t) he had (until he sold the 110) a rear storage set up that was organised and functional.
You might be able to find their respective build threads in Members Rides
I don't know anyone that has put a kitchen in the back seat area of a defender. Some of us put a fridge in the back with storage.
i put a water tank in place of the rear seat box and fridge on top. i have a tray back with storage draws and if necessary tubs on top. i use a foxwing awning and RTT for extended trips or a swag for the short trip
IMG_1670.jpg IMG_1667.jpg IMG_1673.jpg
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
If you want to keep the rear seats and have water, Abber tanks make a 60 ltr poly water tank that fits inside the seat box. Daniel (Mulgo or Expedition Centre) sells a stainless water tank to fit inside the seatbox. It's a bit expensive but if you have the $ and are keen on the best. The Puma seatbox is different to the TD5 (internal ribbing) and the TD5 may or may not be different to the 300 tdi seatbox. The water tanks are model specific. Removing the seat box is as simple as undoing the nuts and bolts. Being inside the truck and under the truck at the same time is the magic trick. There is little bracing under the rear cabin floor so be mindful of your load points if you go with draws/kitchen that might be heavy. You can buy LR Series tub braces that would work a trick to brace the floor.
Mulgo sell a small piece of metal that you use to extend the rear door opening. if you are handy you could knock it up for knicks.
The triangle piece under the rear door cut away can be attached with a hinge on the vertical face and locking mechanism to allow you more of a square opening to the rear storage area. It's handy when you have a slide out draw system. If you go a slide out storage system, i see benefit to have a water tank made up to sit vertical at the rear of the cabin in that dead space. Try to get one with at least 2 if not more baffles. 80 ltr of water sloshing around the rear of the cabin is an annoyance.
The beautiful thing about a defender is your set up is limited only by your imagination and your budget.
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
Got these already!
To hinge the door cutaway is an awesome idea - the great thing about these cars is that they are so boxy and mechano-like, perfect for customisation.
I will be traveling solo or with one other person, but, I could just take out the rear double seat, fill the seatbox with a watertank (I have a Puma) and put in the sliding kitchen where the double seat was, leaving one seat in the rear just in case - I will pull things out and start making measurements...
Whilst the design I have in the rear of my truck is not suitable for this build I strongly endorse Abber Tanks for and tank build. Abber knocked up a tank that this seat box is built around....service, build quality and communication was top notch.If you want to keep the rear seats and have water, Abber tanks make a 60 ltr poly water tank that fits inside the seat box.
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That's a really nice looking setup - is that soundproofing making a noticeable difference?
Slight segue: I was talking to a friend yesterday who is from Africa and spent his 20s driving around in Land Rover 109s - I don't know if his concern was real regarding today's Puma's, but he said 'back in his day' roof racks had to be supported by wrap-around bar work, because the roof structure wasn't strong enough/flexed/eventually got looser and looser. This is in the context of full-length racks for my HCPU. Is this a legitimate concern today?
I'm not quite sure what you are referring to iro the rack but: The roof design hasn't changed much since the 60's and not at all since the 80's. Most defenders will eventually leak where the silicon separates on the front corners where the roof and A pillar meet. More so for those that are set up with flexy suspension. It's easy to spot looking at it (or when it rains you get wet feet). i'm no engineer, however to my mind, more rigid you make the roof rack the more it will try to rip the roof off the body. the silicon seal is the weak link. That assumes the roof rack is mounted to the roof gutters. AFIAK the roof load rating is 150kg (that is usually quoted for a moving weigh loading and it assumes 8 attachment points)
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
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