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Thread: Recommendation - good car aircon place

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    259

    Recommendation - good car aircon place

    Seeking advice.

    My MY13 110 air con struggles, on a hot day, to work after about an hour on the freeway. It has always been that way. Regassing a couple of years back (long and expensive story involving a $2 coin and the airbox) made no difference.

    My wife is most unhappy, and now muttering dark comments about "modern cars from Japan" etc. etc.

    Can anyone recommend a good place to go, to see what they can do to improve things?

    I'm in Sydney's east, so ideally east / inner west / inner south.

    I will confess, I have not yet put dynamat or similar on the floors and would prefer not to start taking bits of the exhaust system out.

    Thanks for the help

    Simon

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    East Kurrajong, NSW
    Posts
    689
    Try calling Graeme Cooper and ask Ward or Stuart who they send their customers to. They are located in St Peterís - 9550 2689
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White (the project)

    VKS-737 - Mobile 0972

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Logan
    Posts
    16,973
    There are threads on this.

    I found the hose carrying hot coolant from the radiator to the heater on the firewall was pressing against the ventilation ducting, so when the coolant heated up after driving for 10-15 mins the heat radiated through the plastic ventilation ducting and warmed the air. I have fitted heat insulation to separate the hot hose from the ventilation ducting. This is on the passenger side at the front near the firewall. It looks ugly but it has improved it, although it's still not great.
    Can I ask if your aircon stays cool if you turn it to recirculate?
    Other options include:
    1. The plastic heater tap may not be closing fully and allowing some hot coolant through even when it is supposed to be closed. It is a Citroen Fiat standard part made in China. Another idea is to disconnect the hoses and clean out the valve, if it is full of dried crud.
    2. Fit a tap in the coolant hose to close and block the coolant from going to the heater. Your heater won't work, but aircon is more important. The tap can always be turned back on. Use a metal tap from Pirtek because plastic taps can warp from constant exposure to 100 degree coolant.
    3. Get the aircon regassed. APparently there is a filter in there which needs changing if it becomes blocked.

    Hope this helps.
    2009 Defender 110 2.4. ARB bulbar, Ironman winch, Safari snorkel, Steinbauer chip, AP HD clutch, Lightforce spots, larger tank, Off Road Systems drawer, Traxide 160 controller, Tekonsha brakes, Mulgo seat runners, Uniden UHF, Nuggetstuff seat corners, breathers, Polaris GPS.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    555
    I have Insulate d the roof and side panels..... And also the transmission tunnel. The insulation helps a lot.

    Also, don't laugh.....But get yourself a curtain and just fit it behind front row....
    Now your air-conditioning only need to cool the front seats...

    Don't laugh....Recommendation - good car aircon placeRecommendation - good car aircon place

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    259
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    There are threads on this.

    I found the hose carrying hot coolant from the radiator to the heater on the firewall was pressing against the ventilation ducting, so when the coolant heated up after driving for 10-15 mins the heat radiated through the plastic ventilation ducting and warmed the air. I have fitted heat insulation to separate the hot hose from the ventilation ducting. This is on the passenger side at the front near the firewall. It looks ugly but it has improved it, although it's still not great.
    Can I ask if your aircon stays cool if you turn it to recirculate?
    Other options include:
    1. The plastic heater tap may not be closing fully and allowing some hot coolant through even when it is supposed to be closed. It is a Citroen Fiat standard part made in China. Another idea is to disconnect the hoses and clean out the valve, if it is full of dried crud.
    2. Fit a tap in the coolant hose to close and block the coolant from going to the heater. Your heater won't work, but aircon is more important. The tap can always be turned back on. Use a metal tap from Pirtek because plastic taps can warp from constant exposure to 100 degree coolant.
    3. Get the aircon regassed. APparently there is a filter in there which needs changing if it becomes blocked.

    Hope this helps.
    Thanks.

    Recirculate does not seem to help a great deal. If I turn the aircon off for 5 mins and then back on it is cold again.

    I will try to check the hose, its like blind surgery on an octupus in that engine bay. Will also look at the tap, but checked it a while back and it looked like it was closing.

    It was regassed a couple of years back but it didnt help at that time

    Cheers

    Simon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    259
    Quote Originally Posted by martnH View Post
    I have Insulate d the roof and side panels..... And also the transmission tunnel. The insulation helps a lot.

    Also, don't laugh.....But get yourself a curtain and just fit it behind front row....
    Now your air-conditioning only need to cool the front seats...

    Don't laugh....Recommendation - good car aircon placeRecommendation - good car aircon place
    If I use a soundproof curtain I won't hear the kids, perfect!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Logan
    Posts
    16,973
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Thanks.

    Recirculate does not seem to help a great deal. If I turn the aircon off for 5 mins and then back on it is cold again.

    I will try to check the hose, its like blind surgery on an octupus in that engine bay. Will also look at the tap, but checked it a while back and it looked like it was closing.

    It was regassed a couple of years back but it didnt help at that time

    Cheers

    Simon
    This picture might help. On the passenger side the ventilation ducting comes in from the mudguard and above it on the firewall is the white heater valve.
    In this picture the ventilation ducting is covered by silvet heat insulation. The hot coolant hose is on top of the silver insulation. The insulation extends down out of sight to underneath the ventilation ducting to separate it from the hot hoses.
    BTW my whiteheater valve also appeared to be closing after I oiled the cable, but when removed there was crud inside, stopping it from closing.
    2009 Defender 110 2.4. ARB bulbar, Ironman winch, Safari snorkel, Steinbauer chip, AP HD clutch, Lightforce spots, larger tank, Off Road Systems drawer, Traxide 160 controller, Tekonsha brakes, Mulgo seat runners, Uniden UHF, Nuggetstuff seat corners, breathers, Polaris GPS.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Rover
    Posts
    1,744
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon View Post
    Thanks.

    If I turn the aircon off for 5 mins and then back on it is cold again.
    It sounds like it's freezing up, which blocks the flow. I had the aircon thermostat replaced under warranty for the same reason on my 2014 Defender. My aircon now works pretty well.

    But I must admit it's something I don't like about my Defender. Defender aircon is one thing that is simply not as good as Landcruiser. Clearly only two vents in the centre is not as good as four with two either side of the dashboard. Also the Defender dash fan is not as strong as it could be - not sure if there's an upgrade available?

    Adding heat insulation and a curtain across a cargo barrier will definitely help and are good ideas, but only once your aircon is running properly.
    1998 Land Rover 110 Series IV 300 Tdi
    2014 Land Rover 110 Series VI 2.2 Puma

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,106
    Quote Originally Posted by martnH View Post
    I have Insulate d the roof and side panels..... And also the transmission tunnel. The insulation helps a lot.

    Also, don't laugh.....But get yourself a curtain and just fit it behind front row....
    Now your air-conditioning only need to cool the front seats...

    Don't laugh....Recommendation - good car aircon placeRecommendation - good car aircon place
    Had a plastic curtain on my cargo barrier in my old van, worked wonders it was like cooling down a ute cab Recommendation - good car aircon place id probably do it in my disco if i get a barrierRecommendation - good car aircon place

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,415
    Considering the varying reports we'd heard about Defender A.C., we were thinking that we were going to have issues in hot weather in the Mallee etc, with our 2013 90.
    But we were pleasantly surprised. Look, it didn't come close to the powerful modern "climate control" type systems that are commonplace these days, but in our 90, we felt it did a reasonable job,..I think around 37/38C would've been the hottest, and we were quite OK in the cabin with the two of us.
    Probably in a 110 with a few people on board, maybe not so good.
    Pickles.

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