Thread: Fitting the Traxide Lighting Upgrade and Driving Light Kit to a 2007+

Too many coinkydinkies.

The 07+ is relayed so to upgrade on that basis alone is not warranted.

However to upgrade to improve the light output probably is. I cooked my multimeter so haven't been able to do a "before" measure of the voltage at the lights.

Well the kit has been installed.

This is a quick "heads up".

It was a long job as all first time jobs are and I finished at 9:00 pm Sunday night with a head torch on.

And all works as it should except for the switch lighting (instrument illumination and on-light). I'm still scratching my head over this one as the genuine front fog switch circuitry seems to vary from the GTR documentation. Power for the driving lights uses 1 and 4 of the possible 5 connections but the wiring from the dash lights has me confounded.

I've measured the voltage drop before and after and while there is only a marginal improvement in that measurement the lighting is noticably brighter.

I am well pleased with the result.

I will document the important bits of the installation and post them in the Projects section when I get a chance (Driving to Broken Hill via Armidale next week so it might be the week after that).

Mahn, what switch are you using to run your spot lights through?

Did you get the Aux harness (switch with a "2" on it) or the front fog light switch?

Originally Posted by one_iota

This is my understanding:

The longer the run to the lights from the relays the greater the voltage drop and the thicker the cable required to prevent this.

The kit uses 8 B&S (Battery and Starter) cable to get the power from the battery to the relays. From this point a thinner guage wiring can take over without appreciable decrease in voltage. So the closer to the lights the thinner that cable needs to be.

Hi all,

Sorry to chip in late in the day.

I think it would be better to connect the relays to the output of the alternator instead of the battery. It is closer, so a shorter run is needed, but most importantly when the engine is running, the alternator powers the lights, not the battery. If you connect the relays to the battery, you get the loss in the wire from the alternator to the battery, and then from the battery to the relays.

Hope this is not too late to help,

Cheers,

Paul

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Mahn, what switch are you using to run your spot lights through?

Did you get the Aux harness (switch with a "2" on it) or the front fog light switch?

Derek

It has the light symbol with the "2" on it.

It was described as a front fog light switched Part No YUG 000540LNF

Interesting...I'm somewhat

I thought this was YUG000540LNF


Can I ask where you got it from?

Originally Posted by Wilbur

Hi all,

Sorry to chip in late in the day.

I think it would be better to connect the relays to the output of the alternator instead of the battery. It is closer, so a shorter run is needed, but most importantly when the engine is running, the alternator powers the lights, not the battery. If you connect the relays to the battery, you get the loss in the wire from the alternator to the battery, and then from the battery to the relays.

Hope this is not too late to help,

Cheers,

Paul

Hi Paul,

I ran a 3 B&S cable (mighty thick) from the battery to close to the relays. The run is about 3.5 m (not as the crow flies) 4 B&S probably would have done the job. Overkill but that was what was available with the appropriate lug connectors.

The alternator on the Puma motor is buried low on the drivers side and even harder to get to than the starter on the otherside.

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Interesting...I'm somewhat

I thought this was YUG000540LNF


Can I ask where you got it from?

www.britishparts.co.uk

I recollect that this illustration was incorrect for the part.

I followed a lead from

Land Rover UK Forums

and

www.REEDX.net