Thread: 3.5 solex zenith carb adjustment & some bits needed

for my field tuning method

I use a 4m length of aquarium air tube

lay it on the ground and pick up both ends. place one end in the mouth of one carby, fill it with water till the water is level with the top of the wheel arch then stick the other end of the tube into the other carby mouth.

adjust the carby till both sides are at the same level.

block one side by hand or with a bung and run the engine up to about 1000rpm check whats coming out the exhaust with the revs stable, repeat for the other side.

Theres lots of traps to fall into but if you're experienced with twin carb setups nothing you cant work out by good judgement.

Ive got the manual for the cd175 type at home somewhere but a quick google should help you out.

actually tuning/syncing the carbs isn't really my problem.....I have the measuring gauge tool thingo here.

my 1st problem is there is no external mixing screw to do so!?
I read that the zenith stromberg type carbs need a special tool to adjust through the top of the damper.
But mine are zenith Solex carbs and have no such provisions for this said adjusting tool!
so this brings me to the conclusion that the only way to tune them is manually with this little grub screw?

I'm all well n good to tackle the task however frustrating and time consuming

My second problem is one of my dashpots is broken,so I need another carb or pair of the same to use for parts.

I've got some new diaphragms,and I'm pretty confident i can get it sorted....I just need this dashpot.

Worst part is,I know there's gotta be a million of the ****in things sitting on shelves across the place.....I just need 1!

The 81 carbs AFAIR can be adjusted by turning the needle using a special tool through the top of the dashpot. I have a tool at home.

The lack of a circlip is not the cause of the oil leaking out. There is an O ring between the needle holder and the outside of the dashpot which dies of old age. I couldn't be fussed to do it, but you have to push the needle holder out ,AFAIR it is held in place with a spring clip. you have to make sure that you don't scratch the o ring mating surface or the new one will leak.
if you want to be sure that you have 81 carbs on , look underneath the bowl. The older carbs that adjust the main jet will have 2 brass nuts in the middle , If only a bump then the needle is lifted or dropped.

AFAIR there are two different methods of turning the needle holder. My tool is like a reverse screwdriver ie a U shaped fork thingo which goes over a blade to raise or lower the needle.
Regards Philip A

try here...

http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/in...menu=C&page=33

take head, there is a few varients of the internals of the cd-175 its old and on many things.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The 81 carbs AFAIR can be adjusted by turning the needle using a special tool through the top of the dashpot. I have a tool at home.

The lack of a circlip is not the cause of the oil leaking out. There is an O ring between the needle holder and the outside of the dashpot which dies of old age. I couldn't be fussed to do it, but you have to push the needle holder out ,AFAIR it is held in place with a spring clip. you have to make sure that you don't scratch the o ring mating surface or the new one will leak.
if you want to be sure that you have 81 carbs on , look underneath the bowl. The older carbs that adjust the main jet will have 2 brass nuts in the middle , If only a bump then the needle is lifted or dropped.

AFAIR there are two different methods of turning the needle holder. My tool is like a reverse screwdriver ie a U shaped fork thingo which goes over a blade to raise or lower the needle.
Regards Philip A

Yeah I think im looking at a different carb to what your talking about....there's nowhere for it to go,or nothing there to adjust.....the part thats broken actually looks as though someone has tried to adjust it and snapped the stationary thread out!

I'll take some photo's tomorrow.....cheers for the help

kinda wanna headbutt a wall right now actually.........what?,was every rover out of the factory fitted with a different type carb or what's the dealio?

there's an engine at the wreckers he wants $100 a carb,is it even worth getting if its going to be wrong?

who's got a pair of working carbs for sale? that i dont need a special tool to adjust!

wouldn't mind getting my truck going! only just bought the bloody thing,got it on the road......sold my daily,BIG MISTAKE!!!

Now I'm stuck at home with 2ton of registered scrap metal in my car port!

maybe it might be best to ditch the zeniths and look for an old holley or something more available, clean it up and use that instead?

Don't get hung up on this Solex/zenith/Stromberg thing mate.
They are all the same thing.
If it has a diaphragm in the top it is a Zenith/Solex/Stromberg.
It sounds as though a monkey has been fiddling with the carbs and stuffed them up.
They are the most simple thing in the World.

Your problem is that you have opened one up and do not know where to start or what it should be like.

Why not take the carbs to a land Rover specialist and he will be able to look at them and maybe put a kit through them. he will also be able to tell you if one is actually broken or you just think it is.

Regards Philip A