Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Fast Idle when coming to a stop.....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    265
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Fast Idle when coming to a stop.....

    Hello all (again), yet another problem on my 92 3.9 that I cannot find a good match for......

    Having changed the plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor, vacuum advance and coil, and finally the MAF sensor my engine is running great. Better than ever since I have owned it.

    However I am now getting a problem of 'over-run' when the engine is hot. With my foot off the throttle when cruising, the revs stay at just under 2000rpm, which means that I am holding a good 60kmh+ when the rangie should be washing off speed and slowing down. When I stop at lights or junctions I can feel the car straining against the brakes. Dropping into Neutral (this is an auto) the revs hold at just under 2000 rpm for about 5-8 seconds, and then drop down through 1500, then 900, and quickly back to a reasonable 650-675rpm. This also happens when cold but is much less pronounced. On startup it will step down through fast to normal idle as expected.

    One minor thing worth mentioning is that when cold, I get a very slight hesitation when applying throttle from stationary. An almost imperceptable drop in revs before it takes off, otherwise normally. This does not happen when the engine is warm.

    So I am thinking that the hesitation can maybe put down to the TPS? But the overrun? Is this the Bypass Air Valve sticking or otherwise playing up when hot?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Balmain
    Posts
    134
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi bigdog,
    99% that the overun is a sticking bypass valve. Conventional advice is to give it a quick spray & brush with carbie cleaner. However, I've found that this fix works a lot more reliably. Here's the extract from my post couple of years ago (& a link to the full thread at the end)

    6) Stepper motor - usual advice is to whip it out and give it a clean with carby spray. However I think this is possibly the better way(?)
    a) unscrew it from the plenum and reconnect the multi pin. put it into a clear plastic bag with an elastic band around the cable
    b) stuff a large rag into the hole in the plenum ie one that won't get sucked in. Or get wrapped around pulleys - take care.
    c) Start the engine. Revs will soar to around 2000. If it doesn't start adjust the rag to limit airflow. The ECU will activate the stepper motor and the plunger will be driven out of the housing. It may take a couple of start stops but the plunger and spring should fall into the bag - a gentle wiggle to assist may help.
    d) carefully clean the threads, plunger and key way and relube. Don't use anything heavy like copper grease or lithium. I used a bicycle silicone chain lube called "ICE" and it's worked spot on for ages.
    e) screw the thread back into the worm - trick bit as you need to align the keyway - it's a feel thing. flip the ignition on and off a few time (no start) to confirm ok, then put it all back together.


    This thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-ra...uctuation.html details the full idle set up procedure, but note as yours is a auto your base idle should be lower - 450>550rpm according to the workshop manual and, once under ecu control 600rpm in gear no air con.
    (mine was a manual that tended to stall when the a/c was on (since fixed) hence I set base at 700>800)

    Hopefully, going through the full idle setup will also solve the hesitation issues
    cheers Chris

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    nz
    Posts
    147
    Total Downloaded
    0

    road speed sensor

    Hiya Hobbes,further to cleaning out the idle bypass valve(stepper motor)i was reading this the other day,and sounds like it may pertain to the problem you having re the high idle.scroll down to road speed sensor symptoms.
    This entire thread has some great insight into the good old 14cux system,cheers westy
    LAND ROVER

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Balmain
    Posts
    134
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi westy (& big dog),
    (note it was bigdog with the current prob - not me!)

    Yup – seen this article before. However, whilst he's for correct in the operating characteristics of the vehicle speed sensor, the assumptions he makes that the idle threshold is too low and affect driveability negatively are possibly misleading in the context of anything other than a dedicated off-roader.

    Once vehicle speed exceeds 8km/h the bypass air valve will maintain idle at around 1200rpm. This significantly helps vehicle refinement on closed throttle, slowing the rate of engine deceleration. This higher idle not only helps with gear changes but also allows for additional significant loads such as aircon compressor, and the fact that on a closed throttle deceleration fuel will be partially cut.
    It’s also “buying some time “ for the BAV to get it’s act together once vehicle stops.
    Once the vehicle slows below 8km/h the ecu, which also gets inputs from the aircon compressor and the gear position switch, will pulse the BAV to close/open via a hunt process to maintain idle at 750 ish.

    On a dedicated off-roader this lack of engine braking may be a bit of a pita: On a lightweight sports like a TVR it’ll help stop the back wheels from locking when the throttle snaps shut! And on a RR makes life a bit less clunky…

    Back to bigdogs issue (if you haven’t got it sorted) on the RR the VSS also provides the feed to the electronic speedo: if the speedo is working so is the VSS. If the VSS is still suspected it’s output can be checked with a multimeter at pin 7 of the ecu.

    My money is still on a sticky BAV, but other culprits are possibly an air leak, throttle butterfly not closing completely, throttle position sensor faulty, dirty MAF.

    One thing to note is that the 14cux has a non-volatile memory – it’s worth disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes to reset any fault codes as a start.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    265
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the responses.

    I haven't been back for a while as I have been getting the 'Busy' message and the logon screen. I guess someone will tell me that I need to become a subcriber......

    Haven't looked at the byepass valve yet as when I started it on Saturday it ran for 30 seconds and then.....just stopped ! ...........as if I had turned the ignition off....so once I get to the bottom of this I will have another go. I am hoping that it is something simple like a lead come away, or a disconnected earth....

    Unfortunately I am spending more time under the bonnet than in the drivers seat. I guess this is my education in the 14CUX system.......but it is getting tiresome. It would be nice to drive the bloody thing for once......

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!