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Thanks Bee Utey, I will check when I have the rotor lined up at No1 that the star cog is actually aligned to the pickup. I don't think it can be out as it has a little plastic lugged ring located below it that the star cog only goes on in one position, but will check and advise on Thursday.
A reminder to not forget the obvious. This afternoon I went out to work out why a bloke's D1 wouldn't go after a number of mechanics had given up on it. Checked fuel pressure, yep, check spark, yep, hang on, let's check the rotor button, hey it's new, hang on it looks sus, yes the coil lead spark jumps right onto it, guess what it was burnt through already. I fitted an XF unleaded rotor button (Bosch part number GB864) and it started nearly straight away. Another happy camper.
I will check the new rotor button as I bought it from Repco and its not a Lucas. Almost fell over when I was quoted $85 for Lucas rotor button and decided to go the cheap option. The XF bosch unit you used in the D2. Will that fit the RR dissy (mine has the amplifier remote from the dissy ,I think the dissy for EFI before they relocated the amplifier to the dissy body found in later 87 -90 mods.)
Just take your rotor button in and compare the height with the GB864. I am pretty sure all the RV8 electronic dissy rotors are interchangeable. My Bosch catalogue lists GL195 from 11/83 to 11/98. The XF rotor looks very different (much wider) but works fine. This is not the first one I have fitted. Oh and it was $10.90 trade at Bursons.
Tested rotor button and seemed fine no spark from coil lead when cranked over. Have good spark from coil lead when tested direct to engine block.
Still have issues with locating dissy for timing.
Will play around with it on the weekend if time permits.
If I can't get it sorted I will have to give in and take it to the specialists.
Pulled the distributor apart again last night. There is only one way that the rotor gear fits onto the shaft as it slots onto a plastic notched seat and that plastic seat will only sit in one position on the shaft. If the gear was out of sync with the rotor then I am not sure how this would be possible as all components seem to be assembled with only one right position. Would love to get a known working distributor and install to rule out this whole distributor doubt that still lingers.
I might try and source one
The star rotor has eight points. All are equivalent. It is the star rotor alignment that determines the spark timing. All that needs to happen is that one of the eight points is lined up at the same time as the rotor is pointing to a cylinder. The XF rotor has a wider tip so has more latitude for working alignment. The alignment needs not be perfect but if the rotor is between two cylinders then corrective action needs to be taken.
Turn the crank to 6 deg BTDC at no.1. Mark the distributor body at the exact point where no.1 lead fits in the cap. Then align the star rotor to the pickup for no.1 firing and see where the rotor button is pointing. If the blade overlaps the mark you made for lead no.1 it should be correct enough to start. Apply vacuum advance by mouth and see if the rotor button moves too far away from the no.1 lead position.
I get what you are saying bee utey but there is no adjustment for that star gear, it will only locate properly in one position due to the notches located on the base of the gear that fits into a similarly notched out plastic ring seat. That plastic seat can only sit in one position as it too slots into a notched position on the dissy shaft. They only assemble one way and that position is fixed from the dissy shaft which makes sense otherwise there would be the prossibility of the rotor and the rotor gear being out of sync.
I will realign it all again and check the rotor gear alignment.
Just thought I would check up that I am looking at this timing position correctly.
1. Have timing mark on crank pulley marked at TDC.
2. If TDC is twelve o'clock, then according to pulley marks 6 degrees before TDC is a minute past twelve and 6 degrees after is a minute before twelve. (before being on the right of TDC and after being on the left side)
3 When timing light is on no 1 lead to get 6 degrees Before TDC at idle am i looking for the timing markon the pulley to appear at the 1minute to twelve or 1 minute after twelve?
I have been working to the idea that Before TDC of 6 degrees would put the timing mark of the crank at 1 minute to twelve.
Put crank at 6 degrees BTDC aligned rotor button to No 1 lead checked rotor star gear to alignment with pickup (had to remove vacuum advance for this as it restricted movement of the pickup module to line up exactly and car wont start. getting very close to dumping the beast. Am off to get some "start you bastard spray" and check if its getting fuel. Can't see how its not as its gone thru fortey litres just sitting there testing. Its hardly burning it and there is no leaks anywhere so god knows where its gone unless the whole engine is full of fuel.