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Thread: Central locking wiring diagram

  1. #1
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    Central locking wiring diagram

    After the wiring diagram for central locking if anyone has it? Trying to hook up an alarm to operate it all and there be 5 wires on the drivers actuator!

  2. #2
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    You need to specify which model as the 84 built Phase II had a different system to the ones built in 85 etc

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #3
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    Sorry, is a 87 4 door Efi

  4. #4
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    Correction I have 4 wires which I have worked out to be:
    Black - permanent earth
    Brown with pink trace - permanent live
    Orange - earth but then switches to live for a second when doors are locked
    Pink - earth but then switches to live for a second when doors are unlocked

    Does this mea the system is a negative, positive, positive/negative or pneumatic lock system? I've got wiring diagrams for each with the lark system but don't know how to work out which one I have?
    Searched the net but so far found nothing!

  5. #5
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    One thing for sure it is not pneumatic. Not sure what you mean by 'positive/negative or negative/positive'.
    The driver's door actuator is the master actuator. All the others simply have 2 wires that supply a little DC motor, with polarity switched depending on whether it is locking or unlocking. The master actuator has 2 microswitches and a timing circuit; press the lock button down and one of the switches is tripped, sending a positive signal down one set of wires to all the other doors; the timer ensures that this signal only lasts about 1 second so the motors are not burnt out. lift the button and the other switch is tripped and polarity in the output is reversed, with the timer doing the same job.
    The remote locking system uses (as far as i know) the same actuators, with the polarity and timing being controlled from an ECU mounted above the passenger footwell.
    If you are actuating the system with an aftermarket gadget, seems to me you will have a 50% chance of getting the polarity correct if approached randomly, i.e you will either have it lock when you hit 'lock' or unlock when you hit 'lock', in which case you will simply swap the wires around.
    If you somehow wire the system up so that you get a continuous signal to the actuators, all the smoke will escape from the little electric motors and they will no longer work.

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