Thread: If you had 10k to spend.......

Originally Posted by RaZz0R

**Note - the car's main use now is off-road - with minor run around trips. and off road means fairly serious off road and the long travel to such places.

Ok so not wanting to sound rude, and this certainly isnt my intention, but are you sure that your main use is going to be 'serious off road'?
I get the impression by many of the post & your responses in this thread that it's not really? Seems more like a touring set up is on the cards?

For 'fairly serious off road', you need three things, traction, strength, & clearance.
Traction comes from lockers, tyres and suspension travel. The other two are obvious.

I would do these things first and foremost,
Ashcroft lockers with their 3.5CWP front and rear.
Buy some decent 33" tyres on some -25 offset rims.
(cut the guards to clear the tyres and test 100 times, cut again if necessary, then fit some basic rubber flares)
Remove and replace rear lower links with something stronger and slightly cranked.
Money should be getting tight by now, so spend what you can on some sliders & upgrading all the steering links.

I personally am not really a fan of 95% of QTs products, but yes the engine mounts do work (as I has them on engine GBox and transfer), they seem to transfer a bit more vibes to the cab but that is minimal, they also get the power to the ground quicker as there is much less drive train twist when you plant it, Yes this is noticeable!

For an added injection of cash, I'd rip out all the gas system, and sell it, sell the tanks and then purchase one long range tank. Its the next mod to my offroad/weekend toy. Just make sure you research the tanks first cause there are many different styles and designs, most are very poor for clearance, some are great.

The only other addition I could think of is Haultech holey bushes for the front radius arms, but these will not last as long as OEM rubber bushes and will most likely need new shocks to suit.
The benefit of the holey bushes in a bit more even flex front to rear, gets the front moving a bit more, basically stops the RRC from flexing like a patrol!

I have a second RRC that is currently dormant, it's got most the above but no lockers and standard 24spline centres, its got the worst ironman suspension package known to man, but still, it got me everywhere I wanted to go, but not really serious off road, I don't think!

Hope my post hasn't offended anyone, just trying to get things back on track to what I would expect a fairly serious off road range rover classic to achieve!

Seriously GuyG a water tank, WTF!!!!

Originally Posted by Grimace

Ok so not wanting to sound rude, and this certainly isnt my intention, but are you sure that your main use is going to be 'serious off road'?
I get the impression by many of the post & your responses in this thread that it's not really? Seems more like a touring set up is on the cards?

Hey Grimace (Hes a Grim!)

No offense taken at all mate. Because you kinda spotted it.
Currently as it is - I guess you could call it a tour setup - however, with the way the fuel usage goes out it couldn't tour past 500km with out needing a fuel up. SO yes in one way touring is on the cards BUT.....

One should and must define what "serious" off road is to them and the use case.
Alot of my mates have pootrols and toyota cruisers. So their tour ability is awesome being lamp oil burners. Their off road ability is also good - a little better then my own to be honest.

Use case: eg, This past Xmas as per-normal we were up about the base of the Vic high country, did a few basic tracks, nothing to test my car thats for sure. Until we came across a link track, didn't go down it even tho I reckon I could have. We ended up at the base of it and a guy with a pootrol, sliders and diff lockers gives the link track ago - while I am told I wouldn't have a hope given the pootrol was sitting on 35" tires. After that we headed up to the Barkley river jeep track - where again the guys reckon I'd be having issues - even tho I was pretty sure I would be right.

SO - I want more setup so next time they say that **** I can laugh and walk the car up it - BUT - I also want better fuel, no STABLE fuel usage so I can start exploring more like the Simpson and maybe up in to QLD.

For 'fairly serious off road', you need three things, traction, strength, & clearance. Traction comes from lockers, tyres and suspension travel. The other two are obvious.

Totally agree - so if you review the current setup on page one - you will also note that she's booked in to ARB for a rear locker to be fitted in two weeks time.
The next thing is tires! The current ones I have are the Maxxis Buckshot - have been awesome but they are done. Looking at Mickey T's for the new set - and yes I had planned to get off set rims and the next size up on the 265/75/16's I have now... so I think thats the 33" I sux at converting tire size. The Koni heavy track shocks I have I was told (At the time) were the longest travel shock I could get for the rangie anyway - and a few have confirmed that. But I wouldn't mind comparing the travel to the Pro-comp ones listed in the QT packages.

I would do these things first and foremost,
Ashcroft lockers with their 3.5CWP front and rear.
Buy some decent 33" tyres on some -25 offset rims.
(cut the guards to clear the tyres and test 100 times, cut again if necessary, then fit some basic rubber flares)
Remove and replace rear lower links with something stronger and slightly cranked.
Money should be getting tight by now, so spend what you can on some sliders & upgrading all the steering links.

Ashcroft - how do they engage \ get active?? and the 3.5CWP means? Cost diff to the ARB setup?
Decent - ideas on what? Cutting not an issue - altho I did consider as 2" body lift.

I personally am not really a fan of 95% of QTs products, but yes the engine mounts do work (as I has them on engine GBox and transfer), they seem to transfer a bit more vibes to the cab but that is minimal, they also get the power to the ground quicker as there is much less drive train twist when you plant it, Yes this is noticeable!

Awesome! Qt is the first place I have come across that has parts and kits for the rangie - can you recommend another place to look at??

For an added injection of cash, I'd rip out all the gas system, and sell it, sell the tanks and then purchase one long range tank. Its the next mod to my offroad/weekend toy. Just make sure you research the tanks first cause there are many different styles and designs, most are very poor for clearance, some are great.

So to be clear - you suggest removing the twin tanks where the stock fuel tank would normally sit - and replace with one big tank... do they carry more in total?? I am not sure of the reason to rip the entire system out - unless you mean to replace it with what Bee Uty mentioned?

The only other addition I could think of is Haultech holey bushes for the front radius arms, but these will not last as long as OEM rubber bushes and will most likely need new shocks to suit.
The benefit of the holey bushes in a bit more even flex front to rear, gets the front moving a bit more, basically stops the RRC from flexing like a patrol!

That sounds ok - not sure if the Koni's could take them. What about that 3 link front end kit from QT?

Hope my post hasn't offended anyone, just trying to get things back on track to what I would expect a fairly serious off road range rover classic to achieve! Seriously GuyG a water tank, WTF!!!!

LOL - no problems and thank you for taking the time to post

Wouldn't worry about the 3 link kit. Engineering alone would take the balance of your cash not to mention you could probably get 85% of the travel and more than you'll need for your use from a well sorted std setup.

I'd get the steering link kit, pretty good value for rods and ends. The performance lift kit is excellent value for 635 pounds you get corrected arms, bushes, trailing arms, and everything else you've mentioned. The hi flex setup they have is a bit of overkill plus there's rod ends everywhere which won't last. The weekender kits look really good as well. I'd give them a call, they are really easy to deal with and ask if they'll add arms to the weekender kits to make a complete package. They'll package stuff and get a better price. Jut be aware that freight will be big as stuffs heavy, unless you sea freight it. Then hurry up and wait. The kit comes with S/pro bushes and I've found these to be ok, the holeys are good for flex but do need changing regularly.

There's really only one choice in tailshafts, Tom Woods are off the shelf and about as good as you'll get.

I'd cancel the ARB locker and order an Ashcroft, get it sent to QT and ship in one package.

You can change the injectors but I'd do the ignition first. You should be able to pick up the injectors cheap off ebay etc.

I wouldn't worry about C&P unless you go bigger tyres, then get 4.11's from Ashcroft which will be stronger as well.

Nice water tank. There was one on eBay a while ago. Why aren't they making more of them???

My vote is for top-hatting the block. Because if you really are going to head out bush, and a liner lets go - which it probably will - then what?

I'm planning something like what Pedro's done. A slipping liner is about the only big trouble you have to worry about with a 4.6.

Originally Posted by RaZz0R

Hey Grimace (Hes a Grim!)

No offense taken at all mate. Because you kinda spotted it.
Currently as it is - I guess you could call it a tour setup - however, with the way the fuel usage goes out it couldn't tour past 500km with out needing a fuel up. SO yes in one way touring is on the cards BUT.....

One should and must define what "serious" off road is to them and the use case.
Alot of my mates have pootrols and toyota cruisers. So their tour ability is awesome being lamp oil burners. Their off road ability is also good - a little better then my own to be honest.

Use case: eg, This past Xmas as per-normal we were up about the base of the Vic high country, did a few basic tracks, nothing to test my car thats for sure. Until we came across a link track, didn't go down it even tho I reckon I could have. We ended up at the base of it and a guy with a pootrol, sliders and diff lockers gives the link track ago - while I am told I wouldn't have a hope given the pootrol was sitting on 35" tires. After that we headed up to the Barkley river jeep track - where again the guys reckon I'd be having issues - even tho I was pretty sure I would be right.

SO - I want more setup so next time they say that **** I can laugh and walk the car up it - BUT - I also want better fuel, no STABLE fuel usage so I can start exploring more like the Simpson and maybe up in to QLD.

Ok given the above I would definitely class your intended use as a Tourer. I would also have to suggest that you probably would have been fine following the Nissan and Toyota vehicles. The main thing to remember is while you lack the strength of the two other makes, the classic makes up for it by having some actual design put into the suspension geometry. This is something non LR folk generally don't understand.
A classic will drive terrain with better balance then most, better clearance etc.
If you are confident in the vehicle you should give it a go, it's the best test and certainly helps to build your driving capabilities.
If it doesn't work out and you don't succeed it's not the end of the world, you learn from this and make changes to both vehicle and driving style to suit.


Totally agree - so if you review the current setup on page one - you will also note that she's booked in to ARB for a rear locker to be fitted in two weeks time.
The next thing is tires! The current ones I have are the Maxxis Buckshot - have been awesome but they are done. Looking at Mickey T's for the new set - and yes I had planned to get off set rims and the next size up on the 265/75/16's I have now... so I think thats the 33" I sux at converting tire size. The Koni heavy track shocks I have I was told (At the time) were the longest travel shock I could get for the rangie anyway - and a few have confirmed that. But I wouldn't mind comparing the travel to the Pro-comp ones listed in the QT packages.

Yeah I noticed the tyre upgrade was on the cards, I was just putting my opinion down to assure your selection.
I have run Buckshots before, and I loved the traction they provided, just unsure about the sidewall strength.
Tyres are very much a personal preference item, everyone has differing opinions. While I personally don't like Mickey T tyres, I don not think they are the worst choice. I have grown my opinion on tyres over many years, I have purchased and wasted a lot of coin on different tyres. I have grown to like the Maxxis brand, along with the cheaper Silverstone MT117s. But I think both these are not beneficial for your intended touring use, and a Mickey T or more importantly a BFG (km2) or Goodyear (duratrac) tyre would be better suited.

As for shocks, you can get 16" travel procomps to suit the range rover so the factory spec'd heavy track konis certainly are not the longest travel shocks you could fit to the rangie but they may well have been the best shock travel to suit the application at the time.


Ashcroft - how do they engage \ get active?? and the 3.5CWP means? Cost diff to the ARB setup?
Decent - ideas on what? Cutting not an issue - altho I did consider as 2" body lift.

Ashcrofts are air operated just like the ARB. The 3.5 CWP is the best strength option. But given your touring application I would not bother with after market CW&P.
Cost wise, I actually think the Ashcroft would be cheaper. But obviously exchange rates and availability would determine thiis further.

Don't waste your time or $$ on a body lift it is simply not required. You can cut the guards to clear the tyres.


Awesome! Qt is the first place I have come across that has parts and kits for the rangie - can you recommend another place to look at??

Heaps of after market suppliers to peruse. I have enjoyed the RTE products, just found their customer service and product quality control to be poor.
Recently I have been very happy to see kits by Devon 4x4, but these are very expensive and personally I think the range rover classic suspension is good enough out of the box.
Pick an after market supplier of rear lower links (any supplier) and get some with a slight crank on them. Thus relieving the amount of stress to the chassis mount bush at ride height, and aiding in just a touch more articulation (assuming your shocks are not already max'd out).

So to be clear - you suggest removing the twin tanks where the stock fuel tank would normally sit - and replace with one big tank... do they carry more in total?? I am not sure of the reason to rip the entire system out - unless you mean to replace it with what Bee Uty mentioned?

No, I changed my mind. Originally I suggest ripping out all the gas and just fitting one big unleaded only long range tank. I suggested the above for a fairly serious off road vehicle, but now that I understand your intentions a little bit more I think sticking with the set up you currently have is fine. I certainly would not go adding large tanks thou. Another 40L sill tank to the opposing side would be a nice touring addition. thus giving you aproxx 120L of unleaded and 60L of gas.



That sounds ok - not sure if the Koni's could take them. What about that 3 link front end kit from QT?

Don't even bother. I have a RRC set up for what I would class as 'fairly serious off road' and I have not even considered such a product. Personally all of the 3 link 'kits' are a compromise, their strength in the rough stuff is debatable and on road under braking some of the kits are simply not even close to satisfactory.


LOL - no problems and thank you for taking the time to post

No worries bud, it's what the forum is for!

Now lets just step back to your comment about 'Stable' fuel usage.
I certainly understand where you are coming from. Having had many issues with the 14CUX fuelling characteristics over the years I am amazed at the fluctuations that can occur.
Unfortunately the task of eradicating the fluctuations can be a daunting task.
I would first and foremost suggest learning the workings of the 5AM Air flow meter and doing the appropriate test to assure it is working correctly.
Secondly the Throttle position Sensor can be checked for correct voltage readings and smooth voltage sweep at given throttle positions.

There is then further threads available on this very forum containing information on the Rovergauge software and cable interface that I have found more then helpful in very recent times.

Finally, the simple and seemingly effective Bosch ignition module upgrade as suggested previously is regarded as a good source of success in the never ending hunt for better spark and running.
Once this is done, an adjustment to the base timing and running test to get the most advance possible without engine pre ignition can return great results.

There are many more factors that contribute to irregular or poor fuelling, but the above are the starting blocks!

Sorry I could not elaborate further, it is way past my bed time, I have had a substantial amount of alcoholic beverages, so appologise if any of the above is pure nonsense!

I agree with Grimace except the diff gearing. If you are going to run 33's and use the vehicle as a tourer then you will get big gains by installing 4.1 gears in the diff. This will defiantly help you economy. And for the tough stuff you will have more control.
Just make sure you fit them at the same time as the lockers to save money.

Originally Posted by vogue

I agree with Grimace except the diff gearing. If you are going to run 33's and use the vehicle as a tourer then you will get big gains by installing 4.1 gears in the diff. This will defiantly help you economy. And for the tough stuff you will have more control.
Just make sure you fit them at the same time as the lockers to save money.

While I don't disagree with the 4.1 gears (I have them myself), I think with the 4.6 and for touring the standard gearing is a better option.

I have a 4.6, with 4.11s, I run a combination fo 33 to 37 inch tyres.
On the 33s I would have no hesitation going back to standard 3.54 gearing.

I ran a range rover with 37" tyres and standard gearing for years prior to my current one and it was not all that bad. Even took the 3.9 Equipped Rangie up to Fraser on 37s and standard gearing. Towing almost a tonne of camper trailer through the sand, and it just cruised along.

But the main reason I say stick with standard gearing is for security in the event that you do damage a differential third member. Finding a replacement standard third member should be a fairly easy and economical task. While attempting to find a differential third member with 4.11 gears will involve a bit more coin and could be a bit of a wait!

I will be 'downgrading' my gearing to Ashcroft 3.5s next chance I get. The hardest part will involve finding a buyer for my current ARB thirds with GBR 4.11 gears!

EDIT: Lol I changed my mind, I know agree with Vogue and disagree with myself.
After thinking about it further, I think for the intended use you should never experience a busted CW&P. So go the 4.1s with the ashcrofts/arbs!

Thanks guys
I am going to call arb in a few... the 4.11 gears... to confim, do u mean ring and pinion or internal gears?? And if i do it to the rear, i should do it to the front too right?? Thanks!!

Oh btw... reason why i went arb... is i live in bayswater not far from them or their HQ. If goes wrong i can throw it back at them to fix! :-)

Its hard to throw diff lockers from here to the uk :-)
I look at jacks / tjms locker. Didnt like it and one from north melbourne... wanted 5k per diff lol