Thread: wont start

Malcolm ,

have you got it started ?

Peter

Hi Peter
it started and ran like a 3 legged dog
so thought I would double check the timing at the gears and cracked the cam. gear
I think I need shims under the rockers
Malcolm

A note of warning regarding the BOSCH rotor button... GB864775, part number 9 231 064 338 moulded on the back.

Bought one, - and it did'tn fit.! Not willing to risk Brute Force and Ignorance (Plenty here...) I measured the diameter of the old & new. Measures are 'east-west'.

Eventually, lots of careful work with a half-round diamond file...and its fitted on nicely. Don't know if this is a normal variation, or if mine is an orphan distributor.- Sorry, did'nt measure the shaft...
The BOSCH spring inside the hole is also stronger.

Some pics to show the huge differance in the arm-width. This particular one claims to be made in AUSTRALIA.

Naturally, the car is running fantastically betterer with a dozen or two degrees of advance, and its co$ting me less $$$ per 100 km....
(- And politicians tell the truth... )

Nothing to do with using E10 / 95 octane 'cos its 3 cents cheaper....

Originally Posted by superquag

A note of warning regarding the BOSCH rotor button... GB864775, part number 9 231 064 338 moulded on the back.

Bought one, - and it did'tn fit.!

Yes, interesting, I haven't met a non-fitting one yet. Mind you, some of the Lucas ones are so tight you have to smash them to get them off. I had a 3.5 RRC in this week I couldn't get the rotor off without brute force, eventually I decided it was in good enough condition to leave on. The cap had burnt badly from running a half pulled out plug lead.

When I do the bigjob repair on a dissy for a broken advance retainer clip, I usually attack the rotor post with wet-n-dry paper or mill file to make the Lucas rotor button a smooth slip on fit. Then the Bosch one is no worries either.

Originally Posted by superquag

A note of warning regarding the BOSCH rotor button... GB864775, part number 9 231 064 338 moulded on the back.

Bought one, - and it did'tn fit.! Not willing to risk Brute Force and Ignorance (Plenty here...) I measured the diameter of the old & new. Measures are 'east-west'.

Eventually, lots of careful work with a half-round diamond file...and its fitted on nicely. Don't know if this is a normal variation, or if mine is an orphan distributor.- Sorry, did'nt measure the shaft...
The BOSCH spring inside the hole is also stronger.

Some pics to show the huge differance in the arm-width. This particular one claims to be made in AUSTRALIA.

Naturally, the car is running fantastically betterer with a dozen or two degrees of advance, and its co$ting me less $$$ per 100 km....
(- And politicians tell the truth... )

Nothing to do with using E10 / 95 octane 'cos its 3 cents cheaper....

Do you know that Bosch have a GL195 for electronic ignition Rovers and GL854 for points ignition Rovers , this includes land, range and the cars ?

Originally Posted by malcolmjeffries

Hi Peter
it started and ran like a 3 legged dog
so thought I would double check the timing at the gears and cracked the cam. gear
I think I need shims under the rockers
Malcolm

G`day Malcolm ,

Did it rattle at all when it started ( lifters ) had you pre primed the oil with a drill down the distributor hole ?

Do you know what type of cam it has or how much lift ?

Do you have 14 bolt heads and have they been machined or just skimmed ?

Are you using tin or composite head gaskets ?

Do you know if the pistons are 9.35:1 factory type with a dish in the top or are they the flat top type ?

Can the engine number and compression ratio stamped on the block still be made out or are they very faint ?

If it needs shims , they can be bought but i`ve made them from old steel Rover valley gaskets , just drilled holes for the bolts and oil and used tin snips , they can then be shaped ( flared over ) to fit the head base of the rocker post and this holds them in place and only the end ones need holes for oil as the oil flows up one end post along the rocker shaft and down the other end post and lubes the inbetween . Most i`ve done is 3 thicknesses , have also made some out of mild steel but that needs more work to get 2 even surfaces on each one .

Peter

Originally Posted by PLR

Do you know that Bosch have a GL195 for electronic ignition Rovers and GL854 for points ignition Rovers , this includes land, range and the cars ?

Yep, the 'correct' rotor is the GL195C,.... a direct (skinny) replacement for my original LUCAS. That was the one I looked at for $12 but it looked like two dollars worth of workmanship & design, and just as skinny on the contact end.

The BOSCH is around 50% wider at the end, giving a healthy jumping-off point for the spark, no matter how advanced/retarded it is.

I have measured the preload and had .098 or 2.5 mm so the shims need to be
almost 100 thou. inch they must have taken a lot off the block when it was machined