Thread: Which RRC?

IMHO, the best engine for a Classic is.... anything 'other' than a Rover V8 engine..

But then again, I reckon real 4WD's should always run a diesel. Petrol show-ponies should be punitively taxed.

There's a poster here who's put a FORD V8 in his... goes very nicely !

Just stick with the 3.5, it's already there, cheap to replace, and can be extremely reliable!

Con: power is not an option with the 3.5 !

I had a 1988 Vogue. '88 was the last of the 3.5V8s before they went to the 3.9. It was also the last year of the gear driven transfercase, before they experimented with the chain driven ones.

Up to '88 the RRC used the Lucas EFI, but from 89EFI system the went to the Bosch EFI, which apparently is easier to tune for better economy. The EFI was set for a global market, which meant they ran rich and used more fuel to compensate for poor fuel in some countries.

When I sold my '88 it had 460,000km on it. I removed the sump that week and the bores still had their hone marks. The motor was very reliable, the manual gearbox was rebuilt at 406,000km, but had started to show mainshaft spline wear at 200,000km.

For the last 160,000 I ran mainly on LPG. I serviced with Penrite oils every 5,000km.

The most unreliable thing on the car was the LPG system, and the electric window on the drivers side needed periodic attention.

I'd be happy to recommend a 3.5 and the EFI is certainly easier than keeping two carbys in tune. A later 3.9 fitted with an LT230 Transfer Case would also be a good option.

The weakest point of the car is the flimsy plastic interior - it's like a bullet proof car with a paper mache' interior. But it's a nice layout and a pleasure to drive. If you can get a Vogue with the arm rests on the seats, you'll appreciate it. The armrests on the RRC support your forearm so well, compared to so many Jap cars that just seem to offer an elbow rest and leave the forearm dangling.

In the end I needed a 7 seater and had decided to only go diesel rather than much around with LPG again, so I replaced it with a 2003 TD5 HSE D2a.

Thanks Michael for your post. Very helpful. I'll certainly keep that in mind!

yes the 3.5 is relatively indestructible, but lacking in power in standard trim. There are a few upgrades that can be done like a decent EFI tune and careful cam selection but above all don't gear them too high. They love a rev so keeping standard tyre sizes and gearing is a good start. I once changed a 1:1 transfer case in a Torqueflyte auto carbied 2door RRC to a 1.2:1 high range gear case and lost no top end at all as the 3.5 was then allowed to rev better. It also made a huge difference in take off and midrange performance.

JC

IIRC, the 88 was also the last of the manual CDL. 89 had the viscous BW centre diff.

Best model RRC- 87-88 Hi-Line auto, nice and simple with the benifit if some comforts and has the more reliable LT230 with the center diff lock. Overall cheap to maintain but can be a fiddle especially that 'flapper crapper' EFI system and the elctrics when Lord Lucas decides it's had enough. When it works it's good but for the most part it's a real PIA. Also keep and eye out for rust in the floor, the underlay is like a sponge absorbing moisture and will rot the floor our from under you in no time. I've wrecked quite a few RRC's where the floor is near gone

Agree, the 3.5 is a gutless sack of **** but out of all the Rangies I've owned they're the most reliable of the bunch although you need some deep pockets to run them but I look it from the perspective of the $$$ I save on mainatining it myself pays the fuel bill .

Trav

Quite frankly, finding a good original RRC that doesn't need major driveline repairs is getting harder. Track down a later one with a good condition body then buy a crashed D1 300TDi diesel auto and fit the entire driveline to the RRC. A pretty good compromise, I know a few around Adelaide and they go quite well, especially with diesel gas fitted.