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Thread: lt 95

  1. #1
    350 range rover Guest

    lt 95

    Just want to ask some questions about my 78 rangy, I have gone thru 3. Lt95 boxes behind the current motor in my car, from reading stuff on landrover forums I was under the impresion they were bullet proof, but the only thing bullet proof i that I can see is the 350 chev, am I wasting my time and money. Putting another. Lt95 in or should go turbo 400. And lt230 t , thanks

  2. #2
    350 range rover Guest

    re box

    Quote Originally Posted by 350 range rover View Post
    Just want to ask some questions about my 78 rangy, I have gone thru 3. Lt95 boxes behind the current motor in my car, from reading stuff on landrover forums I was under the impresion they were bullet proof, but the only thing bullet proof i that I can see is the 350 chev, am I wasting my time and money. Putting another. Lt95 in or should go turbo 400. And lt230 t , thanks
    Better still how about I do u knowledgable land rover folk a favour and answer my own question, " yes I could put another lt95 in if I wanted to be a dick but I would probably have to drive it like an 80 year old bag to get any decent life out of it, which defeats the point of having a chev in it, how was that, have a good landrover day,

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I and others on here are possibly putting more torque through them than a small block chev, with heavier vehicles than you are, so i would say that you need to get a well built lt95, with a taper roller bearing transfer case conversion then all will be fine

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350 range rover View Post
    Better still how about I do u knowledgable land rover folk a favour and answer my own question, " yes I could put another lt95 in if I wanted to be a dick but I would probably have to drive it like an 80 year old bag to get any decent life out of it, which defeats the point of having a chev in it, how was that, have a good landrover day,
    My guess is that the transfer case is failing? not the main box?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    What keeps breaking?

  6. #6
    350 range rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I and others on here are possibly putting more torque through them than a small block chev, with heavier vehicles than you are, so i would say that you need to get a well built lt95, with a taper roller bearing transfer case conversion then all will be fine

    JC
    Thanks for the reply, it sounds encouraging, and yes its the transfer box that is failing, so how do I go about getting a decent rebuild on the box, from talking to a very knowledgeable land rover mechanic today I got the impression that lack of parts and extreme cost make it not viable, I would be very interested. In keeping my manual 4 speed as I. Like it but I'm not sure the best way to go about it,

  7. #7
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    That is a fabrication, a set of taper roller gears and shaft etc will be worth every cent. The LT95 may be a bit of a dinosaur, but it is pretty tough

    PM sent....

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
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    Hi JC

    Any ideas where one would go to source those.

    I've got a fair bit of wear in the current transfer case and would be looking at rebuilding it in the future as well

  9. #9
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    lt95

    Parts for lt95 are pretty cheap on most parts. I rebuild lots of them.
    A 1.113:1 transfer case gear set will handle a small block chev without a problem. The main problem with the t/case on a lt95 is the use of the 0.996:1 gears in standard form. These gears are cut with a large pitch on the teeth to make them quieter. This has the side effect of the two gears forcing themselves sideways away from each other, when torque is applied. This sideways thrust creates massive heat which melts the plastic bearing cages on the needle rollers for the intermediate shaft, also it can weld the thrust washers to the gear!
    The 1.113:1 gears are a straighter cut tooth, causing less side thrust but are quite a bit noisier. I have been using the same set of gears for over 300,000kms first with a 350 chev, now with 4BD1T. My motor is developing almost 200hp at the flywheel and nearly 600ft/lb at wheels. I stripped t/case last year just before xmas to reshim and bearings only to find it really didn't need it!
    With 33" tyres I'm doing about 2500 rpm at 100kmh right in the motors sweet spot.

  10. #10
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    What are these GB fetching $$
    in working condition but suit rebuild?

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