On topic what is the consensus on the 1uz stock form makes 350+Nm
Or the 2uz that makes 417Nm in stock trim?
We're not talking about flavours of ice-cream here. We're talking about diesel tuning which is safe or not.
It's quite simple and that amount of smoke is bad and unsafe.
Jose only piped up after I commented that 500Nm on a TD5 would require over 30psi boost to be safe.
I stand by that comment 100%.
The converse that under 30psi will be smokey and too hot to be safe has been shown clearly by Jose's videos.
What is your point? I should read the testimonials and buy the fuel-magnets?
On topic what is the consensus on the 1uz stock form makes 350+Nm
Or the 2uz that makes 417Nm in stock trim?
That is a nonsensical argument. The whole point of a forum is to discuss things...
To take your argument to extremes, what if someone were to post that they had replaced their brake fluid with tap water. Should we say "good on you" or tell them that what they have done is dangerous, illegal and they are risking the lives of themselves and everyone on the road.???
I like that this has got to 6 pages so far but I don't know why.
Nobody has said LS1 either? Why waste your time with a heavy, thong-slapping 304 when an LS is basically problem solved for anyone chasing relatively cheap, reliable, easily modifiable big power? The power you can make from LS1s is insane compared to effort involved, parts are everywhere/plentiful and they are becoming dirt cheap too. An LS is future-proofing whereas a 304 is taking 1 step forward but 2 steps back and in my opinion, a waste of time and money.
It's a common thing these days - 'Stick an LS in it'. There are plenty of reasons to do so.
The thread title is of course misleading. How to get 400Nm out of a RRC you put it in low range? To get 400Nm into a RRC you need boost or cubes. Simple, really.![]()
Ok, I'll bite.... what would an 'LS1' co$t ? Crate? average s/h prices?
Looking as ALL the fine print, such as bits that need to be upgraded (transmission) engine mounts fabricated, plumbing and electronics.
Plan B might be a properly done re-con and tweak of the 3.9,
Plan C would be simply to drop in a good (?) 4.6 Rover engine, along with all of its bits & pieces, most of which I understand go together relatively easily...
Anyone done and co$ted it ? - Say $25 per hour for your own time and market rates for the stuff you can't or should'nt do...
I'm reluctant to try and wring the last possible erg out of a small diesel, having seen what a jammed waste-gate did to my re-built 2.5 diesel in only 60,oooKm...
IMHO, if you really need that kind of performance, then you've got the wrong engine or car.
Or both.
Edit: - Yes, BeeUtey makes perfect, if pedantic, sense.... ;-))
Goingbush I'm really interested in hearing more about the tune. I would love to one day put a td5 in my lse, but the standard donk has always lacked get up and go.
My cousin had a d2 with a stienbour chip, great tune and would only smoke the smallest amount at full throttle. But he warped the exhaust manifold because of high egts.
His current one (an Extreme) gets about 9l/100 which is excellent for pushing something akin to the dynamics of a fridge through the air but that's with a standard tune.
Regarding the 400nm, I've recently put a high torque cam in my hse. Theoretically it should be around 400. It'll do 0-100kph in 13 seconds without going above 3000rpm, and 80-120 in 4 seconds easily in 3rd.
It's just the same old story on any car forum when it comes to discussing more power. If you want something easy then you put in a better version of whatever is supposed to be in there, and if you have far more time and money than you think you need then you go to all the fiddly work of a conversion - including the engineering. Nobody "drops in" an engine conversion. And I think if you costed your own time it would be far too depressing . . .![]()
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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