Thread: dizzie springs

Originally Posted by bee utey

I don't see why learning how to fix a simple mechanism is such a trauma? Do it, you'll find it easier than you think.

Do I have to ???

I finally had a chance to look at why it wasn't running yesterday. I got one of the kids to crank it for me and there's spark at the dizzie lead. So it's as simple as I've killed the dizzie cap or rotor button (though I can't see any obvious damage).

This seems really cheap for plugs/leads/cap/button:

Land Rover Discovery Range Rover Tune UP KIT Free Workshop Manual ON CD | eBay

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I finally had a chance to look at why it wasn't running yesterday. I got one of the kids to crank it for me and there's spark at the dizzie lead. So it's as simple as I've killed the dizzie cap or rotor button (though I can't see any obvious damage).

This seems really cheap for plugs/leads/cap/button:

Land Rover Discovery Range Rover Tune UP KIT Free Workshop Manual ON CD | eBay

seeya,
Shane L.

You rarely see caps which burn through and won't run at all. Rotor buttons however quite frequently burn through. I have found an XF Falcon rotor button that works well in the LR dissy. It's Bosch part no. GB864. Individual Bosch leads can be bought at many auto stores, by length and cap termination.

Originally Posted by bee utey

You rarely see caps which burn through and won't run at all. Rotor buttons however quite frequently burn through. I have found an XF Falcon rotor button that works well in the LR dissy. It's Bosch part no. GB864. Individual Bosch leads can be bought at many auto stores, by length and cap termination.

Usually I will take the cheapest out possible. I can't see the point in tyring to retain ancient ignition parts in this instance though. The "points" where the spark jumps to in the dizzie cap are heavily burnt. She's all "old" and been there for quite a while.

If you replace the wear items, it also rules them out if you have any further issues. I am uncertain of the point of there being a one way valve in the vacuum line to the vacuum advance. If it's installed backwards the advance wont' work. If it's installed the other way, as soon as you let the engine idle ( the most vacuum will them be present) the advance will suck around to the full advance position, and get stuck at full advance due to the one way valve holding the full vacuum there.

I'm just wondering how I'll get away with spending even more money on cars... My wife will certainly be "not happy" if she spots another $100bucks on the Rangie ... which really is only a toy

You see her piece of **** poogoe 407 ... that's only done 67,000kms from new. First it split an A/C line, I had to buy a genuine hose though poogoe, then when I was regassing it my bottle of refrigerant ran out, ($300 to fix, even doing it myself.... I guess I have enough gas to recharge another 100cars now though ). Then I noticed a rattle at idle which I've worked out is the god damn flywheel. Who the $#@% fits a dual mass flywheel to a car that doesn't even last 67,000kms, where a normal single mass one lasts the life of the vehicle Gee's I hate modern cars. I'll be ordering a single mass "normal" flywheel from overseas to get rid of the dual mass ****.

seeya,
Shane L.

Someone just posted this on Aussiefrogs..... There all obviously saying it must be me due to my love of poogoes .... and having a Classic.



I love it ... I hope they have a forklist available at there destination to get that **** off the trailer. BTW: Did anyone else notice the 'Classic is a ute conversion

seeya,
Shane L.

Oh man .... all you guys out there can laugh hysterically at me now if you like .....

I ordered in that kit with new plugs, cap, dizzie button and leads.... I stuck the dizzie cap and button on ... and bugger me ............... Not a god damn cracker

sigh .... My parents rolled down the drive just as I was looking, so I asked my father if he could check a plug while I cranked it ..... (It's a real b@stard not being able to crank it while I'm out under the bonnet and can check for spark). Anyway, he wasn't at all keen on that .... "You hold the bloody plug wire, I'll crank .... yell out if you find spark there " ... yeah bloody hilarious he is. So I whipped the nearest plug out and it was soaking wet with fuel... Maybe V8's drain off and flood the plugs if you try and start them with no spark ?? So I grabbed one of the new plugs and stuck on ... Yep there's spark there.

so I whipped all the plugs out, cranked her over to make sure none of the cylinders were flooded with fuel .... Fitted the new plugs .... Not a god damn thing.... but a slight pop when I let the key off .... WTF It must be timing... the 4 cylinder motors I have here do ripper backfires through the inlet or exhaust if the timing is wrong. V8's obviously do a gentle little "pop". I found the dizzie was loose So I moved it through the available range of movement...... And only got gentle pops from the exhaust.

I've whipped the dizzie out now, it's rotor button is obviously in a completely different position since I had it apart, so the timing is wrong.... This means I need to statically time it. Does anyone have static timing instructions

eg: if it was an old Citroen goddess... I'd be describing where the hole is hidden in the bell housing so you could drop a 6mm rod into it and lock the motor and TDC on No 1. how do I get the old V8 at TDC on No 1 so I can point the rotor button at that cylinder and set the timing ... ie: get it near enough so it'll run and I can set it with a timing light.

seeya,
Shane L.

Look at your crankshaft pulley. At TDC you line up the mark with the pointer on the timing cover. Take out no.1 spark plug. Use a length of rubber hose and try to blow into the cylinder. If the engine is either side of no.1 firing no air can be blown into the cylinder. If the engine is 1 turn out you will have open valves around TDC and either side. Before TDC the exhaust is open and after TDC the inlet is open. If you can blow air into the cylinder rotate it 1 turn and try again.

Then set the engine 10 degrees BEFORE TDC and align the pickup under the plastic cover inside the dissy with the point of the rotor closest to it. This will be no.1 cylinder position. Work out where no.1 lead terminal is on the cap and mark this position on the dissy body. Is the rotor pointing exactly at this point? Then check all the other leads according to the firing order, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Look at your crankshaft pulley. At TDC you line up the mark with the pointer on the timing cover. Take out no.1 spark plug. Use a length of rubber hose and try to blow into the cylinder. If the engine is either side of no.1 firing no air can be blown into the cylinder. If the engine is 1 turn out you will have open valves around TDC and either side. Before TDC the exhaust is open and after TDC the inlet is open. If you can blow air into the cylinder rotate it 1 turn and try again.

Then set the engine 10 degrees BEFORE TDC and align the pickup under the plastic cover inside the dissy with the point of the rotor closest to it. This will be no.1 cylinder position. Work out where no.1 lead terminal is on the cap and mark this position on the dissy body. Is the rotor pointing exactly at this point? Then check all the other leads according to the firing order, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Sweet .. thanks!!! Man I can't believe something so simple has taken me this long to get around too.... Now I've got the dizzie off and in the shed (rather than trying to do stuff under torch light out in the paddock ) I can see the centripitle weights were assembled incorrectly. So the rotor was pointing in the wrong spot.... sigh...



Here's a photo of what it looks like for anyone trying to do this under torchlight somewhere ... Push the weights in so there touching the spindal.... Then slide the outer spindal down on top so it slots in .... Simple right .... When you can see it.



If the springs aren't the perfect length ... you've got it wrong. you can check once it's together by gently trying to rotate the top half. I've had a win at least. The vacuum advance works well... Usually these are buggered on every car I own.



I can't see where this oil seal goes though .... There's the standard "O" ring on the dizzie shaft to stop oil working it's way out of the block... but what's this one for I wonder if I'll ever find the 3screws that hold the black dust cover on top of everything.... bloody grass! It couldn't have died in the shed where I could work on it under lights would it .... It's a PITA only having 20minutes too look at it occasionally after dark.

seeya,
Shane L.