Thread: Brake pedal height

Originally Posted by Jazzman

Below is a PDF copy of the Range Rover Manual i've found online.

Page 490 has a simple hydraulic circuit diagram and 512 has a complex hydraulic circuit diagram of the brake system. The brake section starts from 486.

http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...anual_1995.pdf

Holly crap .....



You guys are all correct... bugger me, look at that, I'll be driving around on the front brakes. If there is plenty of air in the secondary system, the pedal won't pump up (my usual test for air in brakes). You know it probably doens't leak, 'cos all the fluid leaked away years ago and it's travelling around on the primary system for years.

Great, another job for the weekend.... bleed brakes .... see where they leak from (the fact there not working will mean there *IS* a leak somewhere).

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Holly crap .....



You guys are all correct... bugger me, look at that, I'll be driving around on the front brakes. If there is plenty of air in the secondary system, the pedal won't pump up (my usual test for air in brakes). You know it probably doens't leak, 'cos all the fluid leaked away years ago and it's travelling around on the primary system for years.

Great, another job for the weekend.... bleed brakes .... see where they leak from (the fact there not working will mean there *IS* a leak somewhere).

seeya,
Shane L.

G`day Shane ,
the diagram you have is of a later system than yours , your system is different .

Yours is opposite your primary uses four and secondary uses two the prop valve has five pipes in total . The master is opposite to pictured . ETC

Follow the pipes and see .

however, the basic premise is sound.


oh, afterthought, when you bleed them, bleed down to the bias valve and then bleed to the back brakes.

I also bleed the system of the MC closest to the pedal first.

Hi Shane,

1) Attached is diagram of the earlier braking system.

2) Bleeding procedure for Brakes from the Land Rover / Range Rover Repair Operation Manual

And don't forget to undo the brake pressure / failure warning switch (four (4) turns) before attempting bleeding of either primary or secondary system.


Cheers

Baggy

Sweet, proper instructions!!! I'll have to re-bleed it following them. I bleed them like I'd bleed any car. I started at the rear corner furtherest from the master cylinder and kept pumping until all the brown **** came through and fresh bright green fluid came from the bleeder... some other rear, then did the same both fronts, bleed *both* front nipples at the same time ('cos looking at the circuit diagram for the later car, if you only cracked one bleeder, the secondary system would hold the pedal up high not allowing you to pump any fluid through really).

When I had nice bright green fluid from all the calipers, the pedal was way higher, it locks four wheels equally on gravel... the brakes feel a lot better, and it doesn't feel to nose dive under braking like it used too. I'd say the secondary system was ok, but the primary was full of air. Both were full of moisture and ****ty old fluid.

Why doesn't anyone ever chagne the brake fluid mechanics and people always do the oils and coolant, but never the brake fluid!

Oh yeah, for those that were convinced it was pad wear. The rear pads are at 50%, the front at 95% and the rotors I didn't measure (pointless without a lookup table for minimum thickness anyway) but there chunky with no lips on them. There's no evidence of leaks anywhere at this point in time.... If the pedal drops again, and one system get air ....... We will obviuosly have a problem somewhere though. I'll find out over the next couple of months

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Sweet, proper instructions!!! I'll have to re-bleed it following them. I bleed them like I'd bleed any car. I started at the rear corner furtherest from the master cylinder and kept pumping until all the brown **** came through and fresh bright green fluid came from the bleeder... some other rear, then did the same both fronts, bleed *both* front nipples at the same time ('cos looking at the circuit diagram for the later car, if you only cracked one bleeder, the secondary system would hold the pedal up high not allowing you to pump any fluid through really).

When I had nice bright green fluid from all the calipers, the pedal was way higher, it locks four wheels equally on gravel... the brakes feel a lot better, and it doesn't feel to nose dive under braking like it used too. I'd say the secondary system was ok, but the primary was full of air. Both were full of moisture and ****ty old fluid.

Why doesn't anyone ever chagne the brake fluid mechanics and people always do the oils and coolant, but never the brake fluid!

Oh yeah, for those that were convinced it was pad wear. The rear pads are at 50%, the front at 95% and the rotors I didn't measure (pointless without a lookup table for minimum thickness anyway) but there chunky with no lips on them. There's no evidence of leaks anywhere at this point in time.... If the pedal drops again, and one system get air ....... We will obviuosly have a problem somewhere though. I'll find out over the next couple of months

seeya,
Shane L.

only poor mechanics dont flush brakes, its a 12/24 month thing depending on environment and use