Thread: Won't fire just winds over

Some pics
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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just a wild card.
The Federal injection and AFAIK the later flapper had a bank of resistors bolted to a stud on the back of the LH head.
If the resistor pack became loose or a poor connection it caused bad or no running.
Regards Philip A

The flapper system has an earth point at the back of the LH head and this is definitely a likely problem if there is no injection at all. However the problems included flooding on one bank which suggests power and fuel pump are present. The resistor block lives near the bracket the flapper is mounted to.

Anyway, this isn't a flapper system, it's a later model 14CUX.

Regardless of the above a thorough diagnosis of the EFI system isn't that hard to do unless you have no working knowledge whatsoever of automotive electricals. Either you gain the knowledge or find someone who has it.

I have some idea but I could get someone to come and have a look. My only issue with electrics is testing. I know it has it all in the manual but if your willing to guide me I'm a fast learner. And at the same time I will be able to pass it on to others

Originally Posted by disco dan

(interior pics)

The box with "petrol-gas" with a small hole in the window is the petrol start controller. It energises the petrol injector cut relays for a moment while the starter motor is operated. Generally gas fitters adjust them for way too much petrol. Put a tiny screw driver into the adjustment hole and adjust it back so the time is around 1/2 to 3/4 second maximum. Any more and it'll drown the engine on cranking.

The other box is the safety cut-out for the gas system solenoids. If the gas is working then it's not the problem.

What you now need to find is the two relays that cut the petrol injectors. As mentioned before, these cut the two yellow wires to the negative side of each bank of injectors. All of the wiring to these relays needs to be clean, tight and correct. The relays are switched on by the lpg switch and the petrol start controller while cranking.

Now getting back to the underbonnet, the coil seems to be connected right, assuming the right hand connection is marked negative (the one with the striped wires) The question here is: what kind of coil is it? Is it a proper electronic ignition coil or just some random points coil? I'd rather see a 20 year old OEM coil than a chinese no name brand random cheapie.

Ok cool so how do I know if the timing for the petrol is 1/2 second. I can turn it back like half a turn.

For the relays where will I find them under the seat or engine bay

Coil is from autobarn but I have the original so will reconnect that.

These 2 pictures grab my attention


In this first picture you can see the white with black stripe wire .... Trace both lines to where they go.

Q> Is that a GT140 coil and did you install it ... or touch those wires at the time that you FIRST changed the dizzy
... IE was working / changed dizzies, now pear shaped.

Q> Is that ORANGE (RED?) wire a 12v feed?





In this 2cnd picture I can see a RED and BLUE wire ... What are they hooked up to?






...... and that 3.9 motor is a Serpentine belt model .... 95 onwards Disco? ... No 1987 gear there

Originally Posted by disco dan

Ok cool so how do I know if the timing for the petrol is 1/2 second. I can turn it back like half a turn.

There will be lights in the front window. Observe them while you're cranking. Estimate the time and judge if the petrol is helping or hindering the start. Try a few slightly different settings.

Originally Posted by disco dan

For the relays where will I find them under the seat or engine bay

You will find them connected to the main EFI harness between the engine and the ECU. This same harness exists both under the bonnet and inside the cab. I don't know where your system fitter has put them. Look a little closer, look for badly taped up connections, look for something that is obviously not OEM.

Originally Posted by disco dan

Coil is from autobarn but I have the original so will reconnect that.

What did Autobarn sell you the coil as? To fit what? Has it got any identifying marks you can read? If not then the original is probably better.