Save the money and pay off your HECS fees...![]()
Hi folks.
I've been looking at straying into classic ownership for a while now, so I can play 'pull the land rover apart' without compromising my D2 as a daily drive (it does that enough on it's own... ).
So my plans are to end up with a stretched classic (120" wheelbase probably) in a single cab trayback with 3.9 litres of isuzu awesomeness under the bonnet (not interested in the V8).
What I'd like some advice on is a good base to start with.
Given that it will be getting a chassis extension (and major body changes) it will obviously be requiring engineering, as well as the Isuzu needing chassis welding for the engine mounts and the fact that I want to run 24 spline D1 non ABS axles on it.
So what I'm after advice on is:
- A good year model to start with. It's been suggested I find an LT95 rangie as that's the box I'll run behind the Isuzu, however I may end up finding a wrecked perentie and pinching the complete donk and box out of that, as it would already have the TRB.
- A good base spec. Less fancy electronic crap, the easier for me to get engineering.
- Will D1 axle housings bolt straight up? Given the use it will get (33s and farm work) I doubt 10 spline toothpicks will last long![]()
- What's the market like for classic bits? I can't decide if I get a good base vehicle, which would cost more, and make up some of the cost by selling the good bits (donk, gearbox if not needed, rear doors, tailgate, etc) or by one that's fairly well stuffed, as a massive chunk of it will be replaced or removed anyway, and therefore get a lower purchase price.
- Easy enough to stick D2 rear airbags in the back? It's getting a simple air suspension set up in the rear![]()
- General things to look out for too.
I'm not interested in buying one already half done as a) I despise the thought of hacking up/messing with someone elses project that they've put a lot of effort into and besides, I'd rather not deal with someone elses ideas of how things should be done and b) that will cost a lot more, and it's going to be expensive as it is.
So any advice on general things relating to it I.e isuzu swaps (reading up on these) running 33s, good axle choices, lockers, etc would be appreciated.
Cheers
Muppet
P.S If I'm offending any purists with my disgusting ideas of chopping, stretching, and installing a giant vibrator in a classic, sorry but I really don't care![]()
Save the money and pay off your HECS fees...![]()
get 2 classics and cut a long (60") front from one and a long (the other 60") back from the other. It might make the stetching/joining process easier.
The was a damaged LSE being wrecked on evilbay recently![]()
I had thought about that.
Having a read through of Rovercares thread, it appears the 120 chassis ain't too crash hot in terms of welds.
I'd be getting an engineer involved from the very start![]()
A chassis stretch on an older car used to open a can of worms with regards to engineering. The RTA considered it a 'new' car & needed to comply with all current ADRs.
This was a few years ago now so the regs might have changed.
The LSE has a 108" wheelbase compared to the regular 100" of a Classic RR.
Scott
Interesting...
That would pose fairly significant issues. 108" could be enough, I'd picked 120 as a fairly loose idea of a good length for a tray, etc.
However an LSE would probably cost a fair bit more and I'd feel a touch bad about chopping one up.
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