Thread: More flapper EFI drama - help needed urgently!

Could be a number of things. I would start be advancing the timing a bit - up to 8 or 10 degrees, but this isn't you problem, it will just helps no end when it fixed. Could be the ignition module, flapper, sensors, fuel pump. Don't have any specs on hand - there is a handy troubleshooting manual for these somewhere though. I'll try and find it when I haven't had 10 schooners of beer...

I really need to lie down now...

G`day ,

i`d say from your plug colour , they are saying it wasn`t fuel or air .

The slowing down and cutting out may be related to the TPS , which alters with throttle movement .

A broken wire inside the distributor may give a similar thing because when you let the throttle off you create more vacuum which in turn moves the plate inside the distributor which is for the vac advance .

The ignition amp , which will be on the side of the distributor on yours if std , can be affected by heat and can cause a loss of spark .

Some will suggest that pouring water over it to cool it after the engine has stopped and if it`s found that it will start as it usually does after this proves it is at fault .


The back fire may be the cause of your low idle and low power , i`d suggest you check any and all rubber pipes ECT are still connected to where they should be .

Also check that the flap inside the airflow meter is able the freely move through its range and back again , take the pipe work off and use a chopstick or similar .

If the other bloke finds the trouble shoot manual that will give more to go on .

The manual u want is under "files" technical manuals flapper

Files is under the top banner top of page
My feeling is that it could be amp module on side of dizzy
Brad

Have a look HERE

To have a significant backfire from the inlet you must have excess fuel in the plenum chamber. Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and look for signs of petrol leaking from the reg. I've replaced a few.

For an exhaust backfire I'd say its the ignition module, I've replaced dozens of those with a more reliable Bosch module. Thread here.

Thanks all for the advice and suggestions so far! I think it's obvious I will have to start with the ignition module and as I have a spare factory style unit here it should be the easiest thing to do.

It was a exhaust backfire, almost like a gunshot actually! The car has been running a little hot since I replaced the water pump and radiator and caught the small air lock in the heater core I assume. The temperature gauge would leave you to believe that all is fine but you can smell it getting hot eventually, without the gauge moving. With the extra heat and the poor position of the ignition module it would not surprise me if it has finally been cooked and it would tie most of these symptoms together quite well. Just ironic that the fuel pump died at the same time I guess. I will replace the pressure regulator regardless, as most (if not all) things on this motor are original.

Could the ignition module failing contribute to the thudding sort of knock that I am hearing? I got under the car while it was idling but couldn't really pinpoint where it would have been coming from, if I put my hand over the tailpipe there is a strong, continuous and rather hot flow of exhaust gas when the motor is cold. I replaced most of the exhaust system recently as well, from the Y pipe back, but all the flanges and bolts are done up properly and I (at least by hand) cannot feel gases escaping from any joints in the exhaust while the car is idling so poorly. The exhaust is solid and not leaking etc prior to the breakdown.

I will definitely suggest your Bosch conversion to my father, Bee Utey. As I did it on my `85 RRC and it works brilliantly.

This is the flapper troubleshooting PDF that Bacicat and Bradtot mention, if anyone finds this thread in the future - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...catid=7&id=117

Well I swapped the ignition module and dizzy out with the one from the "parts car" and wouldn't fire with the Lucas dizzy cap, swapped that for a blue aftermarket one and she fired right up. Dynamic timing looks to be 6 ATDC and the dizzy swap has put the vacuum advance hard up against the back of the water pump so that is the next thing to tackle. It is idling well after some fine adjustment to the speed screw and exhaust at the tailpipe is ok, I'll put a new set of plugs in to see how the mixture is though.

I'm not sure if it is just because it is a warm day but it feels as though the motor is still getting very warm very quickly but the temperature gauge in the cluster still leads you to believe that everything is normal, A/C thermos are coming on straight away and staying on. So I will get the radiator checked and order a new EFI coolant temperature sender too, already have a new temperature gauge sender.

Hopefully after the timing is adjusted and the cooling system checked thoroughly, he'll be back to his old glorious self!

Well... everything was fine on Saturday but on Sunday it died again and won't start. I haven't spent any time looking over it since, because I've just about had enough of it!

I can now only assume it could be either the ECU or the injectors, I have a spare ECU available so I will give that a go but I wouldn't know where to start if that didn't work!

So far I have replaced:

Distributor
Rotor arm
Dizzy cap
Ignition module
Coil
Leads
AFM
Fuel pump
Fuel filter



As far as the relays next to the ECU are concerned, I haven't replaced them yet but do have some spares, but the spares are from a car which is currently also having this same erratic problem.