Great. What was the source of the power drain?
I'd be wary about tapping into the power feed from a random connector that you can't positively identify. There's heaps of power feeds going to and from ECUs including the engine ecu and you can stuff up signals if you tap into them. Trust me on this! Also, each wire you find will be part of a relayed circuit which only needs a poor earth, faulty relay, faulty diode, frayed wire, somebody stuffing around with it before you or some other random event to introduce an intermittent fault that you will never, ever trace.
You'd be far better off to wire in a new complete circuit for all your accessories.
If you're planning on using the car for touring and you ultimately want to have a fridge, decent sound system with sub-woofer, GPS etc., I'd recommend planning your power requirements now and installing the base power feed from the battery (or from an isolator if you're putting in a dual battery system) to a new fuse box via a maxi fuse. Then wire from the fuse box as you add each new accessory (with further fuses downstream as required).
This way you will be able to eliminate anything new you have connected from future trouble shooting of the original Rangie electrics.
Further, I'd recommend identifying and labeling any disconnected wiring you find (such as the radio wiring without power) and making sure it is terminated correctly.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
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