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Thread: Electrical drain

  1. #21
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    Great. What was the source of the power drain?
    I'd be wary about tapping into the power feed from a random connector that you can't positively identify. There's heaps of power feeds going to and from ECUs including the engine ecu and you can stuff up signals if you tap into them. Trust me on this! Also, each wire you find will be part of a relayed circuit which only needs a poor earth, faulty relay, faulty diode, frayed wire, somebody stuffing around with it before you or some other random event to introduce an intermittent fault that you will never, ever trace.
    You'd be far better off to wire in a new complete circuit for all your accessories.
    If you're planning on using the car for touring and you ultimately want to have a fridge, decent sound system with sub-woofer, GPS etc., I'd recommend planning your power requirements now and installing the base power feed from the battery (or from an isolator if you're putting in a dual battery system) to a new fuse box via a maxi fuse. Then wire from the fuse box as you add each new accessory (with further fuses downstream as required).
    This way you will be able to eliminate anything new you have connected from future trouble shooting of the original Rangie electrics.
    Further, I'd recommend identifying and labeling any disconnected wiring you find (such as the radio wiring without power) and making sure it is terminated correctly.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Great. What was the source of the power drain?
    I'd be wary about tapping into the power feed from a random connector that you can't positively identify. There's heaps of power feeds going to and from ECUs including the engine ecu and you can stuff up signals if you tap into them. Trust me on this! Also, each wire you find will be part of a relayed circuit which only needs a poor earth, faulty relay, faulty diode, frayed wire, somebody stuffing around with it before you or some other random event to introduce an intermittent fault that you will never, ever trace.
    You'd be far better off to wire in a new complete circuit for all your accessories.
    If you're planning on using the car for touring and you ultimately want to have a fridge, decent sound system with sub-woofer, GPS etc., I'd recommend planning your power requirements now and installing the base power feed from the battery (or from an isolator if you're putting in a dual battery system) to a new fuse box via a maxi fuse. Then wire from the fuse box as you add each new accessory (with further fuses downstream as required).
    This way you will be able to eliminate anything new you have connected from future trouble shooting of the original Rangie electrics.
    Further, I'd recommend identifying and labeling any disconnected wiring you find (such as the radio wiring without power) and making sure it is terminated correctly.
    That's what I'm going to do. My usual first fix is to first remove all "added" wiring and fix whatever the original issue is. Except of course factory alarms, they can stay disconnected and removed

    Power isn't a problem, there is a direct feed right there for the the trailer controller, so more power and amperage than you could ever need. I'd just like to figure out why there is no power there in the first instance .... generally if you find one problem, you will fix a dozen random issues by fixing it.

    I note there is already 2 fusable links bypassed (many years/decades ago by the looks of it). Is there any other fusable links hidden anywhere in the wiring? Or is just the ones at the battery terminal

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  3. #23
    Join Date
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    I'm pretty sure just the ones at the battery terminal. Everything downstream is fused.
    Just check what type of fuse was used to replace the fuseable link. I've had problems with large capacity thermal ones before.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    I'm pretty sure just the ones at the battery terminal. Everything downstream is fused.
    Just check what type of fuse was used to replace the fuseable link. I've had problems with large capacity thermal ones before.
    I dont' like self resetting circuit breakers. I've found heat effects them, so on a hot day ... when you have maximum load on everything ... the damn thing trips and take forever to reset! The two bypassed on this car have been bypassed with sold wire by the looks of it! It looks almost factory the way it's been done with connector blocks at either end.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

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