2 Door running rough

**PLR** · 29th February 2016, 07:42 PM

Originally Posted by ElliotCC

It ran perfectly fine before, the reason I had the carbies done was as a matter of course, I didn't know the history of the maintenance so thought nice new clean floats and needles etc would be a good thing to do...

The rough running is only apparent on acceleration, idle in the driveway no issue..hit the gas and it begins to splutter...try and drive and it struggles to accelerate.... I have not made any attempt to diagnose as been busy with the disco 2 (does it ever end?).

The only facts I have at the moment are the admittance from the garage that it was the result of the tank removal....

G`day Elliot .

I`d suggest before you buy anything you can do some checks for the cost of a bit of time or you could just buy new bits to eliminate , your choice .

It has an electric fuel pump , if you look at the left carb it will have the main fuel feed going to it and a branch across to the right carb .

If you remove the main feed and place the pipe in a bottle you can judge from the flow the amount of blockage of the carb filter and or the pump filter . To do this it would be best to remove/unclip the starter solenoid wire so the key can be turned on without the engine rotating .

To decide if the problem is lack of fuel or too much fuel , take it out for a short drive , warm it up , drive at the revs that it plays up , drive back home playing up . Pull some spakplugs out and note the colour .

The tank being removed and running poorly don`t necessarily go together it could be many things , it may be worth lifting the bonnet when dark and have a look at the leads , if there`s a light show going on it may be a faulty lead .

It`s a bit hard to know if your running rough is a miss or cylinder dropping out or similar , leads and caps etc will often show as rough running when under load .

I am not suggesting you replace any of the ignition parts unless you can find a fault .

Just to know does your RR use points ?

**justinc** · 29th February 2016, 09:23 PM

I would also check that they haven't played with the timing. Retarded ignition timing also behaves like leanness.

Try it at 9 or 10 BTDC the low comp engines love a bit of advance...😎

Jc

**ElliotCC** · 29th February 2016, 09:37 PM

Thanks PLR, I can't drive it as it is a resto project and I have stripped the thing down to just the one driver seat, no glass or rear doors etc...I tried to drive it up and down the street when I first got it back, struggled to drive with all the stuttering etc...will try out what you have suggested, minus the driving around to warm it up....

**ElliotCC** · 1st March 2016, 06:44 PM

Easy there......checking timing? Advancing BTDC...that's electrics....me only use hammers and spanners...

**DoubleChevron** · 2nd March 2016, 09:10 AM

I pulled the carbs off my '85 Rangie and cleaned them up and stuck a kit through them ............... and couldn't get the damn thing to run right. It leaned out and felt to be knocking away on 4 whenever I opened the throttle. It took me pulling the carbs off about 1/2 dozen times ( Some serious

was happening ). Finally I went back to basics and stripped the bastards back down and started from scratch. Nothing wrong, I worked my way back through one of the carbies and pulled the needle seat and blasted back through the carb housing with air and watched a petrol soaked spider splatter against the shed wall.

What had happened was I pulled the carbs down then sat them on a shelf in the shed for a week after I'd thrown a kit into them ...... A bloody spider had crawled into fuel inlet pipe and "almost" completely blocked fuel to the needle and seat, but enough flowed past it to all the car to idle.

Fun right ?

seeya,
Shane L.

**Mercguy** · 6th March 2016, 12:54 PM

...which is why My garage is routinely sprayed with the evil stuff from the pest control man.

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