Thread: 2 Door running rough

My brother in law has told me of his experience's at Roverworks with his D3. He was not complimentary.

It's sad but true, I have a number of issues with them over my 2 door...such a shame because there are plenty of Landy/Rangie guys down here but only one so called specialist...

It came out in a worst state than it went in....and apparently that's my job to rectify.. ;(

The carbies wouldn't have any crap in them if the vehicle had been fitted with a suitable fuel filter. I like using the steel cased EFI fuel filters, e.g. Ryco Z200, that have 8mm hose type fittings. As for the tank and lines, I suggest you take out the tank and flush it properly, then blow the lines out forwards before you install the filter. Cleaning out the carbies shouldn't be much of a problem so long as you have a workshop manual or other suitable instructions on hand. It's about getting the crap out of the float chambers, the main jet and the needle and seat, not exactly a complicated task.

Thanks for the advice. I have a manual and will tackle the job with your advice in mind. One thing I'm aware of is the black art of balancing these twin carbs...would playing around as advised require them to be rebalanced or am I staying clear of that area of the carbies?

Did it run ok when you first picked it up ? I'm betting they buggered up the carbies ..... I can't see how dirty fuel would upset an SD carby so long as the needle and seat continued to work. You see it would probably clear out any junk in the carbies fuel circuit if you gave it full throttle.

seeya,
Shane L.

G`day ,

if it has the early carbs ?

The first thing i`d do is undo the bottoms off the fuel bowls where the main jet adjustment is done and see how much and what sort of gunk is in the carbs .

The fuel pump if factory will have a filter/strainer fitted as well from the factory there should be 1 of 3 types of filter fitted before the carbs

I`d think it odd for rust etc to get past the filter into the bowls more likely to block the filter and stop flow at the pump of before carbs .

Coarse having been around a while it could have anything or nothing fitted .


How and when does it run like a bag of bones a good description makes guessing what it may be more valid .

It ran perfectly fine before, the reason I had the carbies done was as a matter of course, I didn't know the history of the maintenance so thought nice new clean floats and needles etc would be a good thing to do...

The rough running is only apparent on acceleration, idle in the driveway no issue..hit the gas and it begins to splutter...try and drive and it struggles to accelerate.... I have not made any attempt to diagnose as been busy with the disco 2 (does it ever end?).

The only facts I have at the moment are the admittance from the garage that it was the result of the tank removal....

Originally Posted by ElliotCC

It ran perfectly fine before, the reason I had the carbies done was as a matter of course, I didn't know the history of the maintenance so thought nice new clean floats and needles etc would be a good thing to do...

The rough running is only apparent on acceleration, idle in the driveway no issue..hit the gas and it begins to splutter...try and drive and it struggles to accelerate.... I have not made any attempt to diagnose as been busy with the disco 2 (does it ever end?).

The only facts I have at the moment are the admittance from the garage that it was the result of the tank removal....

Sounds like nothing more than a blocked fuel filter. Get underneath, trace the fuel pipe from the tank to the fuel pump and the engine, a filter should be present somewhere. Then buy another one and fit it. It really is that simple, carbies with gunk in them don't generally idle correctly. You could ask the garage to do it, they would have it done inside 1/2 an hour. They might even do it for good will, if you have been polite to them.