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Thread: Stiffened v's cross bolted 3.5L block

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spdterence View Post
    PLR you mentioned the liners are prone to shifting. I take it there is no way to improve or reduce the chances of this happening?

    I appreciated the comments on the heads. I think mine should be ok as they were completely overhauled with new valves, seats done, guides springs etc. I must admit that I have not had an all alloy V8 before so I will be learning a bit. Did these engines suffer from electrolysis at all around the alloy / steel liner interface? If so is there a mandatory treatment for coolant?

    You know - I am just so amazed with the amount of information and contributions from everyone ........... and the amount of people who appear not to sleep at night!

    G`day Terry

    If you ever have the rocker covers off , inbetween the middle 2 rocker post you should find ERC 0216 if the std heads for model .

    Generally the liner shift has a couple of main causes or reasons . If the engine is rebored they will sometimes move but sometimes not . The main cause is being overheated and why the cooling system should always be a priority .

    With a 3.5 the problem is not as great because there is a larger amount ( thickness ) of alloy around each liner , because of this they don`t have the same problem as the 3.9/4.0/4.6 of cracks and resultant coolant problems .
    Liner shift in a 3.5 if making a noise can be sorted but it requires the cyl head of that liner bank to be removed .

    Your engine will likely have an engine #prefix 14D , i`ve got a couple in the shed , One has had all 8 liners drop , it made no noises/rattles and unless it was pulled apart and sighted it wouldn`t be known , no coolant problem , this one has been bored oversize , it will live .
    Another has had one liner shift but it did make a noise and having it apart it can be see where the liner has hit the cyl head surface and dented it but no coolant problem , this one is well worn and revs and kms killed it .
    Another two all these same 14Ds have no liner movement or any sign they want too , both will live .
    These ones have better main caps than earlier ones .
    Have another last of RR 3.5s but it hasn`t got off the trailer yet and i really should put something together before i pull another apart .

    3.5ltrs don`t but it`s a fallacy that only 4.6ltr crack behind the liners all the 94mm bore engines can/will and do crack blocks . I think the reason the 4.6 gets tared with that brush is because of all the Landrover design changes the P38a cooling system went through ( in use ) . These changes caused many over heat problems which in turn caused the cracks .
    The overall fault though is with Landrover and the way the liners are fitted . There has also been comment that the torque to yeid head bolts contribute ( could go on about liners/block/bolts but won`t ) . I also don`t abide with the porous block fallacy , i feel this was used as a way of limiting market pressure and giving the impression that the fault wasn`t/isn`t as bad as it is becuase if Landrover had to replace blocks out of warrantee it would probably have sent them to the wall .

    I picked up a later block 3.9 last weekend it either has a gasket or liner/block problem but no rush to findout yet .

    If you read UK sites you`ll see that they had many 3.9 block failures and the fault was only sort of addressed late in the new block life , around 98 i think it was .

    I have one of the so called sorted 98 build 4.0ltr blocks in the shed and it aint sorted also have another one in our 85 RR 2003 build . It runs much higher compression than std for LPG and it hasn`t given any trouble as yet . If was aware of the problem with the blocks 4 yrs ago i may not have spent the money and bought a new crated 4.0ltr short but at the time it was the best option .

    The only time i`d consider they may rot in the areas you mention is if there part empty and air is able to mix ( as in not in use ) or if the wrong type of or a mix of different coolants are used .

    Any coolant that is recommended for use with alloy is fine , doesn`t matter really what brand , just a type that is easily obtained locally and further afield .

    Best stop now .

    Cheers

    Peter
    Last edited by PLR; 11th April 2008 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Major reason for function "ADD INFORMATION "

  2. #12
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    All I can add is ten years useage and ownership(see below).

    5K oil and filter changes, running HPR30 and at 290,000 kays, no oil usage, no smoke, no rattles,
    ran it pretty much always to 3 at every gear change,, little buggars like to rev,,,

    mind you thats 42 oil changes at, what, around $80 a go,,,


    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

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  3. #13
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    I too do the oil/filter every 5k... in reality changing oil and filter is CHEAP insurance.
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by stooge View Post
    I too do the oil/filter every 5k... in reality changing oil and filter is CHEAP insurance.
    And if you use an economic oil you can usually do an oil/filter change for under $20 on a 3.5.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    And if you use an economic oil you can usually do an oil/filter change for under $20 on a 3.5.

    I can't get a Z9 Ryco for less than $5 and I get my willy sucked with my trade price, that leaves $15 for oil, what you buying for $20 total?

  6. #16
    GuyG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    How were the heads?
    Well one was warped and needed to be pressed to straighten, 9 of the valves weren't sealing - engine builder said the hardness of the heads was fine, but the heads had previously been off the motor (prior to me purchasing the car), so they may have been replaced who knows, the motor only came out when we couldn't get access to helicoil one of the threads in the block - and down it went from there.

    The crazy thing about it was that on the LR tuning machine the LR tech comment was that it was tuned to within tolerance

  7. #17
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    The way Des Hammil describes it in his "how to tune rover v8 engines" book, is that the cross bolted mains was applied to stop "fretting" of the mains block registers. In essense, it stops the bearing block from moving and chaffing on the sides - which induces wear and allows more movement thus accelerating the problem. The failure mode is that the ali block can no longer locate the steel bearing blocks at high temp (with differential thermal expansion) and the bolt threads are left to take the load resulting in cracked blocks around the threads. He says this is the main reason why 3.5's die, and the main reason 3.9/4/4.6's die is the cracking of the block between cylinders resulting in sleave movemnt as has been mentioned already

  8. #18
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    So there you have it.
    Maintenance Maintenance Maintenance. And make sure it doesn't ever get hot. Got it. Now I just hope that mine has had everything done right - so I look after it till it dies then I go to Peters place for a replacement?!

  9. #19
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    Ok so which motors had the 4 bolt mains as opposed to the cross bolt mains?
    Sorry for dragging this out, but I only discovered the thread tonight.
    Very interesting reading as I want to build myself a new donk.

  10. #20
    WOLLAPIT85 Guest
    Only the 4.0 & 4.6 blocks are x-bolted. All other rover 8s are two bolt vertical.

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