Thread: RRC ABS problem

Hi people

I have recently acquired another RRc this one a 91 HiLine with ABS. (New experience this ABS stuff.) How long should I expect to wait for the brake light to go out?

When I start the light stays on, even when I move off it is on for about 100M. If the next stop/start is within about 10 mins the light goes out immediately.

What is the diagnosis?

Do I need to do anything?

While I have you'se, the handbrake light appears more like I would expect the transmission temp light to look. A gear with what looks like a thermometer in the middle. Is that correct?

Where is the best place (cheapest) for a replacement low coolent level sensor/cap?

Diana

Ok so this is normal and the light is the correct one?

Thanks everyone.

C ya
Diana

I had a 93 classic from new and the light went out almost immediately after starting the car. I now own another 93 which is well used and the light takes about 20 seconds to go out after it leaving overnight, the pump needs to build pressure although the brakes still work fine. It never comes back on unless I leave the car for about 30 mins then its just for a few seconds. I have blead the system thoroughly using the correct protracted ABS method and also changed the accumulator sphere. Still the same and has been like that for 18 months of ownership. Bottom line is the cars brakes are spot on and I have plenty of confidence in them. The ABS warning light should stay on until the car reaches about 10 kph
The coolant level sensor can be repaired. Its a read switch that can be re soldered inside, see Range Rover Remedies My one did not work because the float had become saturated and sunk. I cut a piece of fishing float and fitted it in place, it now works fine but looks a mess.

Diana, the transmission temp idiot light comes on with the handbrake light at startup - as a lamp check. Let the handbrake off, and both lights (trans temp & handbrake) extinguish.

It's in the drivers manual, I think. Check on the RRC CD under publications.

Cheers and HTH

Pete

Originally Posted by wayneg

The coolant level sensor can be repaired. Its a read switch that can be re soldered inside, see Range Rover Remedies My one did not work because the float had become saturated and sunk. I cut a piece of fishing float and fitted it in place, it now works fine but looks a mess.

Having the same problem atm. Already did the fix some years ago on the reed switch, but now the float is breaking up and the light comes on when cold from the pump suction in the overflow until thermostat opens.

Was contemplating using the float from my old fuel pump....

Cheers

Andrew

The ABS system is great when working well but can be painfully expensive when you start to run into issues. I removed mine and fitted the std brakes again off an earlier wreck, straight fit andf cost a hell of a lot less at around $400 for the lines, master cylinder and the booster. It all fits well and it never was picked up by the mechanic who did the roady on it.

As far as parts go, good secondhand ones (pump) go for $3-400 . I sold mine for $250 including the abs module so a fair bit of $$$ there but I just wanted it gone.

Trav