You may find that it is actually wear in the catches.
You may be able to get them to catch if you adjust the length of the operating rods. It worked with mine for a time.
Hi there. Since I brought my Rangie, like most, I've had trouble closing the upper tailgate. I brought a replacement tailgate but it's in worst condition than mine! The locks and latches (on mine) work, it just doesn't grab. I've moved the bolts back and forth in an effort to get them to catch. After looking at this problem for some time, I removed the rubber stripping that runs between the upper and lower tailgates. The tailgate now shuts and holds well, however it doesn't really solve the problem. If I can have some suggestions and ideas for some better, long term solutions, it would be appreciated.
Thanks
JohnB
You may find that it is actually wear in the catches.
You may be able to get them to catch if you adjust the length of the operating rods. It worked with mine for a time.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
If there is one part of the Range Rover that has had me close to beating the vehicle into a tangled pile of scrap metal with a large sledgehammer, the upper tailgate is it. My first RR, an 84 model 2 door that I had for about 4 years, used to quietly disgorge camping gear via the upper tailgate at the slightest sign of unsealed road, or whenever the mood struck. Nothing I ever tried cured this, adjusting the rods and latches was just a way to kill a couple of hours every second weekend (took my mind off the SU carbies and electrical problems). Rangie Spares (now Les Richmond Automotive) used to make a kit that enabled you to reverse the position of the struts so that they went over-centre and pushed the tailgate shut; I fitted this and at least it stopped swinging all the way open when it came unlatched. The kit is no longer available but you might find one on a wreck.
My second RR, an 88 model that I have had since 1997, stays closed these days after dismantling the latches and building up the worn faces then chamfering the mating edges (also fitted the strut reversing kit when the mate I sold the 2-door to wrecked it, LRA were kind enough to fax me the fitting instructions from their old files). Unfortunately, I am the only one in the family who can get the tailgate open and I have to use both thumbs! It also has to be slammed nearly hard enough to break the glass in order to latch shut.
My third RR, the 94 soft-dash classic that is my regular driver now, has never displayed any problems whatsoever with the tailgate- never comes open, closes almost by breathing gently on it. Funnily enough, it had 2 brand new latches fitted immediately prior to me buying it.
SO, I reckon save yourself some grief and buy some new latches before it sends you stark raving mad. Or fit a pair of padbolts (I seriously considered this a few years ago!).
Pete
Hi John,
As said previously, you can adjust the actuating rods but that is usually only necessary when it becomes difficult to open.
You can get some adjustment out of the striker bolts, but you'll probably need an impact driver to loosen them.
I have pulled the catches apart in the past and fitted new 'L' shaped bits that rotate onto the striker bolts. I just cut them out of stainless with a grinder, pretty easy to do.
New catches probably aren't much $ from the UK.
cheers, DL
One of the items in the link below might be helpful
rangie.com
Cheers,
Stu
1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project
Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
http://www.monarchist.org.au/
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