Thread: shock absorber replacement...

G'day Folks

My 1/85 4 door has split pin and washer on the top, I believe that it is a common thing to use the rear mounts assy from Disco 1's as they are threaded, straight swap so it is an easy retro fit


cheers

I changed rear shocks in my Rangie without removing wheels, jacking the vehicle, etc.

Just undo the bottom nut, remove the split pin and pull the shock out.
Fitment is the reverse. Make sure the shock is compressed, get it in place at the bottom, as it extends slide it over the top mount.

Hi,

Seeing this thread is still going I checked with the w/shop manual.

RRC's went to the threaded mount in 1990 FWIW.

For models using split pins the manual says to use the inboard hole. As previously posted, that's what I used to do but it isn't easy to compress the rubbers that far, so I started using the outside hole. (was in a hurry 1st time)

The top rubbers don't seem to wear any faster doing this and its a 1 minute job to change them anyway. Could make a tool to compress the rubbers to use the inboard hole, but I haven't been bored enough in recent years to do so.

I'd think that if the threaded version was done up too tight articulation could suffer and the weld on the top shocker loop could get stressed.

cheers, DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi,

Seeing this thread is still going I checked with the w/shop manual.

RRC's went to the threaded mount in 1990 FWIW.

For models using split pins the manual says to use the inboard hole. As previously posted, that's what I used to do but it isn't easy to compress the rubbers that far, so I started using the outside hole. (was in a hurry 1st time)

The top rubbers don't seem to wear any faster doing this and its a 1 minute job to change them anyway. Could make a tool to compress the rubbers to use the inboard hole, but I haven't been bored enough in recent years to do so.

I'd think that if the threaded version was done up too tight articulation could suffer and the weld on the top shocker loop could get stressed.

cheers, DL

Just get a socket, that goes over the sticky out bit, put the rubber in, then the washer , stick the socket over the lot and bash fug out of it, I also use the outer hole now, jacking the vehicle to the matching height of the extended shocket helps with this and a 2 post hoist makes it a dream, they're basically just a crap idea and should of been pin