Reply With QuoteIt's normal, that's just driveline lash that you are feeling. The rear is tight because the handbrake acts directly onto that shaft.
Fossicker
SubscriberHi Guys
I have just been giving 48-206 (GS 4x4) a check over after travelling 15000 kms since purchase and it passed with flying colours, driving much more quietly and smoothly than when I bought it and no leaks of any sort.
My only concern is that, parked with the handbrake on, I find that the front prop shaft can be rotated about a cm. or so either way. The bolts seem to be perfectly tight. Is this normal or a sign of wear? In the manual it says to check if the movement is excessive but doesn't say what amount is excessive.
The rear shaft is not moveable at all.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
Perentie GS 1988, 48-206
Work Vehicles long ago: Series 1, several Series IIAs, FC 101 and a Haflinger
REMLR No: 411
Swaggie
It's normal, that's just driveline lash that you are feeling. The rear is tight because the handbrake acts directly onto that shaft.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Wizard
SubscriberTracca
Mine is the same
Apparently that free play is normal
Phil
Phil B
Custodian of:
1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
1978 S3 swb canvas
48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
1985 County with 4BD1T
TopicToaster
Unless your centre diff is like new you will have a small amount of movement between the front and rear drive shafts which is wear on the gears/shafts and thrust washers. But make sure the play is not in the slip joint of the driveshaft - there should be very minimal to nil movement there. If you ever have to check the centre diff, a good upgrade is to put in a 1 piece cross shaft assembly with steel thrust washers.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
Master
Yes, the more movement, the more the thrust washers under the planetary gears are worn - or, as in my case, gone completely!Originally Posted by Bearman
In hindsight, I wish I'd measured the freeplay before I pulled it apart. Then I could measure again after reassembly with new washers, and I'd have a range of measurement to indicate wear for the future.
The 1-piece cross shaft assembly was tempting, but I can't see that much inherent weakness in the stock design to justify the 45 GBP purchase. It wouldn't do anything to reduce the wear on the thrust washers or any other components - it would just reduce the risk of the cross shafts shearing.
Are the steel thrust washers a good idea? Our LT230 has done 150,000 kms to wear out the stock ones - I think I would rather replace them again in another 100,000 kms and know that the diff housing and planetary gears have little to no wear, than know I can get 200,000 kms or more out of having steel washers, but knowing I might have to replace the gears or the housing itself after that time.
TopicToaster
The big expensive bit in the centre diff is the housing itself and it gets scoured when the thrust washers wear out and the gears come into contact with the housing. If you monitor the freeplay and are prepared to change the brass one as required then there is no problem, but let them go too far and damage occurs. The steel ones last much longer. How long both types last depends on your driving - if you lock the centre diff whenever you are on soft or loose pavement it will last longer than unlocked which can allow the gears to turn. The 1 piece cross is a personal choice - I have seen a lot of broken shafts in centre diffs but so far have never heard of a 1 piece failing.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
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