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Thread: Fitting a snorkel with dual batteries in a V8

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    Just tried adjusting the AFM. It was a little high but nothing much. Didn't change anything.
    I checked the gaps of no. 7, 5, 3 spark plugs and all was fine at 0.8mm so I stopped there. Will check the others tomorrow.

    Test drove it after doing the above and it still pops and farts and runs rough at cruise but you can redline it in 2nd gear and it pulls hard and strong right the way through.

    So I'll change the leads tomorrow just to rule it out but otherwise all I can think of doing is refitting the old airbox and retiming it to suit and see if it runs fine like it did before I installed the snorkel
    Just for a check run it with the vacuum advance disconnected. I have seen dissys that fire off the extreme end of the rotor button when on vac and there might be an adjustment issue in the pick up air gap. Grasping at straws but its easy to do.

  2. #22
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Just for a check run it with the vacuum advance disconnected. I have seen dissys that fire off the extreme end of the rotor button when on vac and there might be an adjustment issue in the pick up air gap. Grasping at straws but its easy to do.
    Ok Mr bee utey. Just now I had a quick play with the timing. I upped it to 12d BTDC which is what I used to run it at and it still had the dramas I listed above. So on the way home (just around the block really) I pulled off the vac advance hose from the plenum and plugged the plenum outlet. Amazingly the car behaved itself all the way home. Drove as per normal.

    So I'd appreciate it if you could enlighten me with your adjustment procedure

  3. #23
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    Well after reading this in another thread and realising that it is my exact issue I went and fixed it in 5 minutes.
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey
    What happens if you get the polarity of the two wires reversed? Then the amplifier will trigger (roughly, from the falling pulse) and your ignition timing will be out by a large amount, if it runs at all. When connected the right way around, the timing should occur near where the magnetic pick-up meets the star rotor on the distributor shaft. The air gap here is critical, it should be adjusted to the smallest gap allowing free rotation, otherwise low speed operation might be somewhat erratic.
    Yes I had reversed the two distributor wires on the ign amp when I refitted it to its new spot. Then to make matters worse I retimed the car to suit the dodgy ign amp signal.

    All sorted now. Thanks mr bee utey.

  4. #24
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    Apr 2009
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    No worries! You found my other post, that's good because I had a day off from the computer and got some quality treadly riding in.

  5. #25
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    I looked the thread up just in case the info was in there and it was. I felt pretty stupid at having transposed the two wires but also pretty happy that it was such an easy fix. I've previously remotely mounted the amp that was on the distributor so the wires are connected using crimp terminals and easily swapped over.
    I've never marked them as one way around it will start and the other way it won't so it was bad luck this time that it actually started the wrong way around.

  6. #26
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    I still haven't refitted the LPG or washer bottle. I've got all the places mapped out but I don't drive it much at the moment so haven't worried about it. But I'll get there..........

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Gas is now done. Just need to get a washer bottle. I've looked around and some of the lateish model jap utes have perfectly sized rectangular ones.

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