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Thread: Disco 300 TDI oil leak on FL brake/swivel hub [photos included]

  1. #1
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    Red face Disco 300 TDI oil leak on FL brake/swivel hub [photos included]

    It has been a while since I have posted because all my questions have been answered in previous threads on the forums. No thread had any details on this.

    I recently noticed an oil leak on my front left brakes/swivel hub. Be warned, it is rather graphic.




    That's 2 views of the same front left swivel hub. Not a pretty sight. Running my index finger on the brake rotor (the visible side in the photo) there is a thin layer of oil. The other side is dry as it should be.

    I often get beneath to keep a good check on things. It wasn't until this morning I noticed this oil leak, but it has obviously been overlooked for quite some time.

    I will be taking the disco to MR Automotive within the next few weeks. Is this a job for them or can I easily take care of it? Would it just be an oil seal?

    I could reel off a list of other problems I would like to fix, but that's for MR to look at when I take it in. These Land Rovers keep you busy learning and loving it.

  2. #2
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    That's nothing!

    My Rangie is so bad that when I lie underneath to grease the propshafts, I come out looking like a dalmation from all of the drips that have landed on me in the 3 mins I have been laying under it.

    My swivels leak so much that the tyres throw the oil into the wheelwell.

    To answer your question, the swivel seal is a bit of a pig to change, but not particularly technical. Never done it on a "modern" landy but would imagine it is much the same as a series.

    The seal has to be fitted from the diff-side of the ball, so you have to actually remove the swivel ball. This means removing everything that is stuck to it. As I said - not hard, but requires effort.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shonky View Post



    The seal has to be fitted from the diff-side of the ball, so you have to actually remove the swivel ball. This means removing everything that is stuck to it. As I said - not hard, but requires effort.
    Actually, you don't have to remove everything attached to the swivel. All you need to do is disconnect the brake hose and steering arms, then undo the bolts that hold the swivel assembly to the axle housing.

    I did my RR one Christmas Day. Both swivel seals replaced including removing shims to increase swivel preload done in a few hours. I did have hoist access. IIRC I may have even posted some pics.

  4. #4
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    The swivel ball looks to have some decent grooves running across it, in the top pic, might pay to check with your fingernail how bad they are. If they are deep you may have to get a new swivel ball, Regards Frank.

  5. #5
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    4WDs Melb. do or used to do, a 'split' seal so that all the disconnection wasn't necessary. You just slipped it over all the gubbins.

  6. #6
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    With all that oil smeared onto the brake rotor, your braking wouldn't be the best

  7. #7
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    My old Rangie had 2 Grease nipples fitted to the housing. All the oil was replaced by grease topped up through the Grease nipples.
    It ran for years like that!

    I don't know if it can still be done, but it sure made the job easy!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    The swivel ball looks to have some decent grooves running across it, in the top pic, might pay to check with your fingernail how bad they are. If they are deep you may have to get a new swivel ball, Regards Frank.
    Thanks for bringing this up, I did have a check with my fingernails. They are all smooth. The flash on the camera made them appear like grooves.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining! View Post
    With all that oil smeared onto the brake rotor, your braking wouldn't be the best
    Until I get this fixed, I have been counting 4 mississippi gaps between vehicles infront of me. The day I noticed that I had bad brakes was when I was driving home at 4am in the morning in the rain going slow down a declining road where it ends with a giveway t-intersection. I slid straight out onto the intersecting road with all the wheels locked up. I was very lucky nobody was actually travelling on the road. So to avoid any nasty accidents I haven't been driving it at all in the rain. The trip to MR Automotive is going to be scary.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Actually, you don't have to remove everything attached to the swivel. All you need to do is disconnect the brake hose and steering arms, then undo the bolts that hold the swivel assembly to the axle housing.
    That is what I meant, but perhaps lazily expained.

    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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