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6th March 2011, 09:21 PM
#1
started wrong end, rear window
After putting up with the rear DS window not working bit the bullet and following the tread on removing ECU {which a number of people said it would be the prob, } removed the ECU and which wasn't stated used a milti meter to do a continuity test from the pins and following the circuit looking for the elusive dry joint, could find one,, bummer. Put it all back and still wouldn't work, pulled the door skin,{should've started here } and found the SW unplugged plugged it in tried it, and the window fell down, the nylon roller missing, following more ideas from this site, pulled the actuator, ground off the back of the pin rummaged through heaps of junk "never throw stuff away" found a roller with the right ID and OD put the original pin back in pinned the shaft/ to arm put it all back, and works great, so thanks for all previous post which all help heaps ..Gary
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7th March 2011, 06:55 AM
#2
Yes, the back windows in ours dont work either. Havnt bothered looking yet.
Why on earth do they go through an ecu. Simple to direct wire through a fuse. Push button up, push button down . Simple. Dont aftermarket kits work like that.
Still trying to find power to the AC clutch. Circuit says there is a relay then notes say relay only in highline. Wiring in these drives me nuts.
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7th March 2011, 08:51 PM
#3
I think they go through the ECU in order to be part of the alarm system.. When they were built in the UK they had a pretty sophisticated alarm system as they kept on getting nicked!
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8th March 2011, 05:16 AM
#4
Well good to hear you fixed the problem after everything, they are a bit of a run around but at least problems like that have loads of info on them because so many people have already been through the same stuff 
When I drove my Disco home from picking it up the very first time I noticed the rear windows wouldn't work at all. Pulled out the ECU and re-soldered the dry joint and they worked fine. How I didn't pick that up before buying the car I'll never know!
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8th March 2011, 09:16 PM
#5
Hi so apart from a milti meter is there another technique for finding the dry joint, I made a typo in my post as I could NOT find one, but I was using a MM ...Gary
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9th March 2011, 05:14 AM
#6
You should be able to find images of the ECU on the internet with the offending joint circled or highlighted in some way. I don't know if it happens to other solder joints, but it certainly happens a lot to the one for the rear windows. I just found mine by following the pictures on the net and then just looking to see which one was slightly dry and cracked and needed re-soldering. It should be easy enough to see if it's dry.
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9th March 2011, 07:41 AM
#7
The following link shows the offending solder joint:
http://www.landyworld.co.uk/discowindows.htm
10 minute fix. It is good to find a simple solution.
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