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Thread: removing rear pinion flange

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Far Northern N.S.W Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    Hi Shane

    Any women in the camp?

    You can try some nail varnish remover around that pin.

    Cheers Arthur
    Hey Arthur,hahaha.Yeah lots of women.

  2. #12
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    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    Slide hammers are easily made from a length of threaded rod, some nuts and washers, and a lump of iron. Welding can be done with 36V DC (3 batteries in series) and 10 gauge rods. Used to do this all the time when I played with dune buggies.

  3. #13
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    Dec 2009
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    Meadow Springs, W.A.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mandala1111 View Post
    Thanks for all the good advice.I was thinking of using an angle grinder but can someone tell me how deep the centre peg goes into the flange because I don't want to cut into the pinion thread and main nut.Using a slide hammer would also work well but I don't have one and I also don't have a welder as I am on solar power.
    Cheers
    Shane
    Hi Shane,

    I cut towards the diff down the side centralizing peg in a couple of place, enough to loosen it.

    The centralizing peg actual covers the pinion flange nut, so you do not what to cut too much into it.

  4. #14
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    Feb 2010
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    Got to it today with a grinder,what a ***** of a job.I found a bolt that fitted the threaded centre and made up a pulley but still didn't budge,it was sooo tight and yes it surely would have had locktite on it as the manual say's to use locktite when re installing.Even with grinding it took a lot a cutting and grinding to get it out.Not a job a would choose to repeat but am glad to have the new uni jointed shaft in now.
    Cheers
    Shane

  5. #15
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    Oct 2010
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    Perth
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    Glad you got it sorted. I've got to do the exact same job in about a month's time after I get back from the Kennedy's.

    I would do it this weekend but I have no confidence I could get it completed in a weekend which I would need to do as I leave a weekend or so after.

  6. #16
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    Dec 2009
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    Meadow Springs, W.A.
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    Hi Shane, Glade it came out in the end, it is an awkward job!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Dalby
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    This is the real deal.


    This is how I did it.



    The pliers were just to ad depth as the bolt was too long. Not to grip anything.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northern Windowlickersville WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptaplin
    Hi Shane, Glade it came out in the end, it is an awkward job!
    Particularly when the bolt you use to extract it shears off. Found out the hard way the thread down the middle doesn't go all the way thru...

    ...and the G8.8 bolts in the Würth cabinet weren't actually G8.8

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Far Northern N.S.W Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    Particularly when the bolt you use to extract it shears off. Found out the hard way the thread down the middle doesn't go all the way thru...

    ...and the G8.8 bolts in the Würth cabinet weren't actually G8.8

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...
    Yes I could relate to the bolt sheering off.I first used a make shift pulley and the 8.8 bolt I used started getting so hard to turn it actually started stripping the thread and it still didn't budge.IMHO it is another bad design choice by Land Rover as I have found on a few other occasions.It is always an interesting discovery owning a Land Rover.
    Cheers
    Shane

  10. #20
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    Oct 2010
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    Perth
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    So it's an M8 bolt I need to buy to make the puller, yes?

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