Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: 300tdi over heating

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nerang, Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    97
    Total Downloaded
    0

    300tdi over heating

    Hi all, the temp guage sits sollid all day long till I hook up the high sided box trailer. The previous owner towed a caravan around Australia twice, I hook up a trailer for the first time, and up she goes, stick at 80k and all good till a hill, down the other side, temp goes back down and sits back in its usual place, any sugestions please. I have done 20,000k since i purchased it at 216,000k, it was a hot day but no hotter than any sumers day. There is no sign of any leak, the resivoir was full and presurised, will check the water in the morning when it is cool.
    suggestions greatly appreciated
    Brett

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    radiator needs rodding and the thermostat probably wants replacing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    ORANGE N.S.W
    Posts
    130
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Also check that the fans at the front are working, they should engage if the a/c is on or the temp goes to high.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    lota, brisbane
    Posts
    604
    Total Downloaded
    0
    FIT AN ENGINE MONITOR!!
    more accurate reading of temp then, the temp gauge is only that a gauge and it lies.
    previous info of rodding radiator cant hurt and from what i have read here almost aperiodic maintenance item
    info from this forum suggests that the temp gauge only moves to hot when it is over 100C which is getting to be too late

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0
    all of the above is right

    getting your radiator "rodded" at a radiator specialist with tanks off is the first point

    costs around $100 if you remove it and take it in

    but if you take the vehicle in they can also flush the block for you - take whatever parts need replacing (thermostat, water pump, p gasket, hoses and belt) (because they probably won't know where to find them at a good price)........... all of this will put the cost well above the simple radiator cleaning cost - but it is all stuff you can do yourself

    if you can cope mechanically with problems can arise (like corroded bolts securing the water pump to the housing) you'll be ok

    and if it costs a bit look at it this way - you'll then have a cooling system that will be ok for the next 100,000km +


    FWIW, my advice would be NOT to replace the water pump without also replacing the "p" gasket between the pump housing and the block

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    blackbutt qld
    Posts
    418
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it was ok before you put the trailer on, the viscous coupling sounds the problem. They do not last forever.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nerang, Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    97
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Front fans

    Checked if the fans were working, they are not, checked fuses all seems good though not sure any fuses I found are any thing to do with electric fans, If I was to guess I would think Relay, Air con works but fans not going on, where would i check for relay or other????
    Also noticed new water leak from back of water pump down side of block, Dam.
    I can do basic mecanical stuff on the landy but wouldnt know where to start for water pump, will get mechanic to do that but surly i could check for a relay that works or not if i knew were it is, Where do I start. i couldnt even find where to empty the radiator unless it is at the bottom hose?
    Any help greatly appreciated.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    24
    Total Downloaded
    0
    G'day mate,
    Yup cooling system draining on a 300tdi disco is a bottom hose job (did mine on the weekend after re-rego-ing the old girl)
    The waterpump on these motors really isn't that scary, have done mine a few times in the last 11 years of ownership. Your new leak will almost certainly be the P gasket mentioned earlier in the thread (there's a housing which bolts to the side of the block, this is the gasket in question TBH I have had more of these fail than waterpumps!)
    The most important fan is the mechanical one, so having the thermo clutch checked is worthwile, however given you have a leak the symptoms sound to me like the cooling system could do with a good bleeding.

    Good luck!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
    Posts
    4,918
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Brettsky64 View Post
    Checked if the fans were working, they are not, checked fuses all seems good though not sure any fuses I found are any thing to do with electric fans, If I was to guess I would think Relay, Air con works but fans not going on, where would i check for relay or other????
    Also noticed new water leak from back of water pump down side of block, Dam.
    I can do basic mecanical stuff on the landy but wouldnt know where to start for water pump, will get mechanic to do that but surly i could check for a relay that works or not if i knew were it is, Where do I start. i couldnt even find where to empty the radiator unless it is at the bottom hose?
    Any help greatly appreciated.
    your water leak is most likely to come from the "p" gasket I referred to above (post #5 I think), can cause some of the mounting bolts to corrode and get stuck

    whoever removes the water pump will potentially risk breaking the water pump through bolts - not a big issue for an equipped workshop but can be harder to deal with at home on your own

    IMHO the time has come to do the lot (it would have come around sooner or later) and then you'll have a fully functioning reliable cooling system for ages to come

    also... have a think about how close it is to timing belt replacement time - it can be simpler to do it all at once

    where you are located I'm not sure about reliable LR mechanics (they do need to be reliable LR mechanics) but I have bought parts from MR Automotive in Redcliff and found them quite helpful; HTH
    Last edited by 87County; 19th September 2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: afterthought

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Gold Coast, Qld
    Posts
    74
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Or Ricks at Nerang. Many glowing reports on here about them.

    Cheers
    Last edited by Disco Inferno; 19th September 2011 at 04:31 PM. Reason: read original post again....

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!