5/Rear electric windows won't open/close by door buttons or consoule button, front work fine.
Mate, welcome i've recently joined myself after buying a 96 petrol and have this place great with so many helpful folk.
I've got exactly the same issue with mine. I'm going to check out the suggested thread and see how I get on, I'll let you know. Likewise, please let me know how you get on.
Cheers,
Mark
Ask him if that price includes a reach around and then change the fluids yourself. Going by his quote he reckons he's worth about $1200 an hour.
Perhaps ask what is included in a transmission service.
He put in a new filter kit, the old oil was black as and stunk to high hell, the good news was that there were not many shavings on the magnet they were very fine no big bits, also found that the old sump gasket was not fitted properly hence it was leaking.
That was the easy part, he first had to remove the exhaust, cross member & something else before he could remove the sump then replace every thing and of course all the bolts were rusted and in hard to get to places.
Anyway all up it took 3hrs and cost $407 but at least now I know it has been done.
Did it fix the whine - nope it's still there but the auto seems to change much smoother and I have lost the clunk that I was getting when it changed back into first when pulling up at lights.
Regards
Rich
Since I got the Auto transmission serviced, I have been keeping an eye on the fluid level and it has got me confused.
1/ Dipstick says check when cool and idleing + plus I put in in neutral - the dipstick shows it is on the low mark.
2/ If I go for a drive so the fluid gets warm/hot and then check it after letting it sit idleing in neutral for 5 min, the dipstick shows normal.
If I just check it when cold and not running the dipstick shows overfull as it should, I only mention this point to show that there is fluid in the transmission sump.
Which one should I take notice of point 1 or 2 as I don't want to under/over fill it.
Regards
Rich
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