TDI 300 Overheating problems

**tassydisco** · 26th January 2013, 12:28 PM

Exactly same thing happened to me to. I chased the problems for 3 years fixed everything I could think of, had the radiator done twice both times they told me it was fine. Finally bought a new one 3 months ago, all my overheating problems have disappeared. Should have done it a long time ago! Only cost me 360 delivered for an aluminium cored radiator from LRA. Now I can tow anything up any long hills all day long and it will never go above 90 degrees.

**waltsd** · 31st January 2013, 10:03 AM

Just come back from trip to Esperance region from Perth After fitting the new viscous fan. I can't believe how much "howl" I now get from the new fan clutch when it gets up to temperature and need to drop it down to 4th to get up some hills. Also noticed the temperature actually drop going up some hills, which I never seen before (engine guardian). No overheating all the way back on a 35 degree day up hills and loaded with camping gear. Obviously the new viscous fan is working! Great to hear roar, when needed!

I did have one day it went up to 100 degrees, but on that day it was 42 and going straight into a 50km/h head wind. Maybe the rad flush/new rad would have solved this completely also??

**Jonesy1972** · 1st February 2013, 08:33 PM

It was warm today and I gave it everything I could to try and make it hot, air cond. on, 3000 RPM going up Greenmount hill, tail gating the car in front (no clean air). So it appears the viscous fan is working fine. But I will be investing in a new radiator. If anyone has bought one recently for a good price send details.

Regards
Jonesy

**Jonesy1972** · 16th February 2013, 10:40 AM

I haven't found a new affordable radiator yet, but the new fan seems to have fixed the problem. Yesterday was a 38 degree afternoon and I dragged a bobcat up Greenmount hill doing 50km/h at 3000RPM (5 mins continuous running) and the temp gauge didn't move.
So, touch wood, I think I've solved the problem.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Regards
Jonesy

**Spel1** · 18th February 2013, 06:44 AM

Originally Posted by waltsd

Just come back from trip to Esperance region from Perth After fitting the new viscous fan. I can't believe how much "howl" I now get from the new fan clutch when it gets up to temperature and need to drop it down to 4th to get up some hills. Also noticed the temperature actually drop going up some hills, which I never seen before (engine guardian). No overheating all the way back on a 35 degree day up hills and loaded with camping gear. Obviously the new viscous fan is working! Great to hear roar, when needed!

On the basis of this and other posts, and a small observed rise in temp from the useless standard temp gauge on a hot day with the aircon on, I bought one of the TM2 engine watchdogs that take temp readings from the metal. (I bolted the sender to the stud behind the thermostat). On a trip to Adelaide from Melbourne (steep hills on the way out both ways) the temp touched 104 - but the dash gauge didn't move. After some observing, the temp rises were only with slow speeds and lugging up hills - higher speeds (with airflow) all was good. I bought a new viscous fan coupling and what a difference - on the same hill on the way to Ballarat last weekend where I previously hit 104, temp did not go above 94 degrees. Pretty much like this across the board, much lower and more stable. Thanks for the useful information. Simon

**peter51** · 7th March 2013, 01:50 PM

Spel1 is the previous post followed a clever strategy that all should follow. The TM2 is quite accurate and by simply bolting it to the thermostat housing you get a good approximation of the water temp before it enters the radiator. These devices are very simple and fast to fit - but you should buy some heat sink paste from Jaycar to put around the bolt to sensor interface. Be aware the indicated temperature will be in error by up to 5 degrees because you are not in direct contact with the water.

Now if it reads over 105 degrees under moderate load - you have major problems.
Now start replacing cooling system parts - starting with the viscous fan - and then the radiator( they are cheap compared to a new head) - check the nonreturn valvle on the overflow bottle on the 300TDi's etc etc. Don't skimp on the coolant quality and concentration - using plain water does work - but not for long.

If you can get it down to 98 degrees under extreme load then you have a very good cooling system.

If you have access to an infrared thermometer, you should see a drop of 15 degrees between the top and bottom of the radiator - on the metal inlet and outlet pipes.

Now fit a low water coolant alarm (sensor fits into the top rad plug on the 300TDi) and you can drive anxiety free.

BTW:You can also fit an accurate mechanical/electrical gauge sender into the top of the thermostat housing - 300TDi - ENZED will have the adaptor 1/8 NPT. This will give you an accurate water temp. If you want to know about the relative accuracies of various gauges then do a search on autospeed website - the have a gauge test on known brand gauges. The eBay ones are out by 5 dgress - I know as I have bought 2 and they both read 95 degrees when the ater is 100 degrees.

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