GET.....AN.....ENGINE........MONITOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!
factory temp gauge is useless and tells lies
it is recommended to not rev the 300TDi over 3250rpm!! excessive wear occurs on the timing belt?
turbo comes in at around 1800-2000rpm
GET.....AN.....ENGINE........MONITOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!
factory temp gauge is useless and tells lies
it is recommended to not rev the 300TDi over 3250rpm!! excessive wear occurs on the timing belt?
turbo comes in at around 1800-2000rpm
A TDi 300 should be driven in the 2000-3000 RPM band. Maybe 3500 if you are overtaking. Below 2000 RPM there is NO power and when cold it is even worse.
Checking the valve clearances is not that complicated - there are a number of good tutorials on the web (maybe even something on YouTube from memory). Set Cold.
Good luck getting it sorted - sounds like you are pretty close to getting it back to 100% again.
Cheers
David
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This is an old style deisel, not a 2 stroke motor bike !!!
Be nice to it and don't rev it this hard, can you get 'valve bounce' in a diesel ??
If you reckon the tappets may be out it would be a good idea to check, 0.2mm or 8 thou in the old language.
This is the sequence
No 1 valve with No 8 fully open
No 3 No 6
No 5 No 4
No 2 No 7
No 8 No 1
No 6 No 3
No 4 No 5
No 7 No 2
It's worth checking the the prime of the fuel system, air in the injector pump can give some very strange symptoms.
I do mine in stages, first at the fuel filter, then at the injector pump banjo then finally when running I 'crack' each injector connection. Works for me.
Deano![]()
Those revs sound more like when I'm thrashing my petrol weekend fun car....not a diesel!!!
When I test drive a Disco I was uncomfortable going above 3500, felt like I was punishing the poor thing!
I dont think I ever got above 3400rpm in the 300tdi. Maybe post a video of the smoke to see if others think it is a concern
I just checked. My 300tdi disco only revs to 4500. I had never taken it above 4000 before.
Thanks for advise
I made a mistake with the revs it's seems to pull great between 2000-3000 rpm but fades after that. I haven't read all te replys yet but have will do when I've finished work.
Took it to M.R automotives at redcliffe yesterday they fitted 2 new pulleys on the belt drive so that irritating whine has stop yay! Priced me up to new cambelt cogs tensioners for $850 plus a tune. Still haven't had time to do the Clarence but will do soon!
Will read through and update soon.
Maybe A frame ball joint or transfer case root :-/
Most rpm i've seen on mine is 4200 when overtaking and usually 2800- 3200 driving in daily traffic.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
UPDATE:
Thanks for all the advise on the clearance procedure and also on how to bleed the fuel system
So finally done the valve clearance this morning and it's all but cured the smoke problem! Relief!!!
The clearance was way off!! My friend who I used as a head gasketseemed to think they didn't need to be done... Well he was wrong and it did.
All of them where tight with zero clearance at all. Lucky that the piston heads didn't smash the stems to pieces!
I'm guessing that this caused compression issues which in turn didn't allow proper combustion resulting in poor fuel economy and loads of unburnt diesel being thrown out the exhaust. So next just waiting for the timing belt and tune up which is booked in in late feb.
Added a litre of oil to the transfer case and the gear changes are much smoother. It took the whole bottle so I'm gonna get some more and fill her right up. Poor thing was well thirsty!
Gearbox oil was full. Actually when I took off the filler torx plug a lot of oil came out?! About half a cup or so. I was a bit confused as to how the level got so high! The car was parked on a slight camber to the passager side so the plug was at the highest point.. :-/ ... Is there another way of filling the gear box?
I've notice my comment about the revs caused a few eyebrows to twitch lol. Ive not even revved it up to 4000, just got my numbers mixed up.
Still got a fuel filter to replace and sediment to clean and I'm hoping that should be it for the fuel system.. Am I missing anything?
I had a play around with the front prop while I was under and could hear a clunk in the transfer case, one in the diff... But there was also one on the passenger wheel hub is this a normal thing?
My wheels also rub on my chassis when on full lock not sure if its both sides or just one. Is there a way to prevent this.
I realise I'm asking a whole lot of questions here I'm just really keen to get her back to her full glory
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks a bunch peeps![]()
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