Thread: Problem Problem, help help!!

Sounds to me like a CV is on its way out , this is the sound mine was making before it let go

^^^^x2

Agree with above. I've had a few cv's go in cars and that's pretty much a perfect description.

Chris

I'd tip the CV as well, however a stone caught in the drain pattern of the tyre will present a 'click' noise on tarmac, and depending on what side of the tyre will be more or less prevalent in turns.

Naturally the CV 'click' will be more frequent given the smaller radius of the joint (click maker).

Matt.

thanks all the helps!!

If say I am gonna to change the CVs by myself, (because I am not cash rich to pay a mechanic to do it) is it gonna be a big job?

I understand the break pad, disc and pipes have to be removed before I can take out every? I am not confident to deal with the breaks

thanks

Mate it's not a huge issue, I'm almost certain there is a couple of guides on here, might see if I can find one for you. It's fairly straight forward. In the end, if it can be done one a track (which many have had to do in the past) then it can definitely be done in the garage\driveway!

I'd love to give you some specific tips, but not having had to do it on my Disco as of yet (knock on wood) I couldn't be completely sure. So I will leave it to the experts that are floating around here and I will try to find one of the guides for you.

Chris

Do you have a Rave CD? If not you should probably grab one at some stage, they are really handy for this sort of thing. Also, if you don't PM me and I may be able to supply some "information" on doing the replacement.

I can't seem to find the guide I remember reading on here a while back, but it will show up eventually.

Chris

you dont have to remove the brakes to change them,



the short cut version is.
Start on the left side

Prep work
unlock the steering
Jack and axle stand the front axle
remove the wheels


Repair work

remove the drive flange (if you need to have a helper step on the brakes)
use a brake hose clamp to clamp the flex brake line
uncouple the brake hose from the wheel end of buisiness (Alternate step here for reassembly)
remove the bolts holding the brake shield in place
remove the bolts holding the top swivel pin in place
remove the top swivel pin
have your helper turn the other hub so the tie rod extends in your direction (IE the steering would be turned away from the side you are working on)
pull the swibel hub off of the swivel ball and the axle (you may need a helper here, its kind of heavy and the axle may want to come with you)
Remove the axle

9This point is the start of where to reverse for reassembly)

clamp the alxe in a good vice and beat the CV off with a hammer (use hardwood or soft steel soft jaws and a block of hardwood to cushion the CV)
remove the C clip.
Put the New c clip in place
remove the axle from the vice, put the new CV in the vice, pack it with the supplied grease (yes, even if you are going to goto oiled hubs)
sit the axle into the CV
put a light downwards pessure on the axle and hold it vertcle
using a small flat tip (preferably 2-3 if you have a helper) push the C clip inwards so it rides into the splines and tap the axle hom

head back up to where it says this point is the start of where to reverse for assembly and read everything above it untill you get to the repair work header. once you get that far do the other side. once both sides are done reverse the prep phase.

when you get to the brake lines bit, Put the brake lines together, have a helper lightly apply the brakes. Remove the brake clamp and using a suitable pry bay lever the pads off of the rotors while you crack the connection for th brake hose off at the vehcile side of the connection. once you get he bubbles out and you have fresh fluid close the connection and your brakes are bled.

IT IS CRUICIALLY IMPORTANT THAT AT NO TIME DOES YOUR HELPER RELEASE THE BRAKE OR ALLOWS THE PEDAL TO GOTO THE FLOOR
his job is to hold the pedal down about 2-3 inches, if you get this bit wrong you are potentially up for a full brake bleed.

from the top of my head (and buy the rave cd from the shop to confirm these numbers and get the full instructions)

swivel pin bolts and drive flange bolts are 65NM with locktite 243
wheel nuts are 100NM (but may be different depending on which rim you have) with copper/nickle/silver antisieze or grease on the threads and the shoulder of the wheel nut