I love my 98 tdi auto but if i was buying now i would be looking for late D2 TD5 auto.
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Hi
I done some searching and cant find anything for this comparo
I am looking for a tow rig to tow a speedway car around (around 2-2.5ton est) that the swmbo can also drive (p plates) that wont cost the earth or drink fuel like an old Holley.
So I am looking at a late d1 or early d2 disco
Have had and used range rover classic's before and would prob of get one of them but for the p plate issue
I am leaning towards the d1 due to the auto box being the older one like the rangie had ( which were super reliable for us) and the story's of the d2 having lots of issues with the electronic version of the same box.
So which would be the better vehicle for towing that's also reliable and what issues are there to look out for with them?
Thanks
Mark
I love my 98 tdi auto but if i was buying now i would be looking for late D2 TD5 auto.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
yeah perfect world I would just get a 2004 d2, but not wanting to spend that much money, if I wasent restricted by the p plate issue I would prob get a rrc lse![]()
I can't speak for a 300 tdi auto D1 but can say that the D2 td5 auto makes a good tow tug. If you are worried about electronics then you will be ruling out a vehicle with well known fixable issues.
For me the zf auto in the d2 becomes a concern after 200 k km, I expect the D1 auto would also be getting a bit sus by then.
An ECU controlled engine will deliver greater torque than a non smoking mechanical fuel pump, I'd go the D2.
ecu controlled auto's generally have softer shifts then the older mechanical ones that is done by sliping the clutches causing wear, with the old rrc we had the auto started to get slow to shift into top at about 480'000km which the car was replaced then with a newer rrc which we still have but again p plate issue
considering the cars I would be buying would be in the 200'000 to 300'000km range having to worry about getting the gearbox rebuilt becomes a bit of a worry,
so is the gearbox issues a lack of servicing or that's just when they wear out issue?
to be honest I prefer the td5 engine with its unit injector design but that's what I work on everyday of the week
I mainly don't wan to buy a car then have to spend anther 5k in 6-12months time rebuilding a gearbox or engine
My 98 300Tdi Auto has 482,000k's and is going strong.
Ive not had any issues with the ZF 4 Speed Auto. It tows well and I like the fact it isnt electronicas is the mechanical fuel injection.
I have been looking at a possible replacement when I hit 500,000k's but there is nothing around today that will easily do 500,000k's. The service costs are quite high and also the need to be careful with the common rail diesel system.
The D2's do drive well and possible pull better, but if your are looking at a 300k old D1 would be cheaper to buy, run and maintain than a 300k old D2.
In my humble opinion, but I maybe totally wrong on this![]()
I bought my D2 at 212***.
Recently hit 250k and the gearbox still shifts beautifully.
It's due for a fluid change, and I think that's a big part of getting the most out of the gearbox, keeping fresh, good quality fluid in the box.
Chances are if you find one at close to 300k the box will either be on its last legs or will have been replaced.
thanks for that
oh how do the discovery's engines compare to the Nissan gu patrol 3L td as we have one at work atm as a loaner while the transit van is being fixed (puma engine) and I find the pootrol to be hopeless compared to the transit which you can easily driver around under 2500rpm when the pootrol needs 2500 to even think about moving, which is weird as the transit with all the gear is a lot heavier then the patrol empty (oh and the patrol still is not as comfortable as the olds rrc with a 10 year newer vehicle)
if there about the same would a variable vane turbo pretty much correct this?
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