Will be seeing double after this little effort. How did they scews on backwards?
Thought I would have a go at the matrix pipes. Thought I could do it from underneath the steering column.
Will be seeing double after this little effort. How did they scews on backwards?
Ok. Preparing myself to take out the dash. Wonder what else I can sort out while I am in there? So no I have a half finished stearing box. I removed a safari window to sort rust spot. And my battery died. I love my disco.
Yes they are a very unique car to ownBut taking the dash out aint that hard just very time consuming and fiddly just take your time and when you go to put it back in a second set of hands makes life a hell of a lot easier
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I have the same problem and have been told by someone who has replaced his that dash removal is not necessary. All that is needed is to remove the console and the gear around the temperature controls. Then a bit of wiggling and hey presto! All this has not been verified by me of course! Also I would think twice before removing the dash. I have done it before on multiple vehicles and they are never the same afterwards! You think you have minor electrical problems now, wait 'til it's virtually snowing and the new core you fitted doesn't work because of the fiddly cabling in the black hole of a dash!![]()
This is mostly a copy and paste from a previous post of mine, did this over 3 years ago and still OK:
No need to take out the whole dash. I changed my heater core recently (95 Disco). Just need to remove all the support stuff from the driver's side footwell to expose the core - cut through the aluminium lines at a convenient point so you can slide on some heater hose for rejoining (drain the system first is a good idea - I already had mine bypassed and had flushed with clean water so the fallout is not an issue) then pull out the old core - comes out the side like a big old 8-track (for those old enough). When refitting prefit the bits of metal pipe that attach to the core with the clamps, but do not tighten fully, you can swivel them when loose to avoid the dash supports etc - when its all back in, use the heater hose with new clamps to reattach the lines. One thing good to do is go the hardware store and get some self adhesive foam insulating strips (the draught stuff for doors) to make the core a tight fit in the assembly and to stop blow by. Make sure you have new o-rings for the pipes. Do a search on this site for more step by step instructions on this relatively easy fix. Takes about 6 hours for a novice. I've had no leaks and it saved a lot of money and time. Good luck.
Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner for you, but at least you got it done properly. Always do a search before you do the tough jobs, someone's usually tackled it before. Posts from others have helped me no end over the years.
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