Thread: Replacing 3.9 fuel pump

Unbolting a manifold tank is normally 4 bolts, then prop it up at 45° using a suitable chunk of wood and then open the floor hatch. The plumbing should flex enough to do this. Undoing the petrol tank from underneath usually requires that the towbar is removed first (also the bumper bar to get at the towbar bolts) as it intrudes into the space that the petrol tank needs to manouver downwards. Not only that but connecting/disconnecting the pipes to the pump is devilish hard as they are clipped to the chassis in front of the tank.

BTW there is no such thing as "scuba tanks" for LPG.

Thanks bee utey.
I was thinking the inside option may be the easier.I do have about 50 ltrs of gas in the tanks so probably will use a bit of 4x2 to lever them up out of the way.At the moment I can't see where the fuel tank pump access panel is,could anyone enlighten me as where exactly it is.
Cheers

Hi , when I did mine , from memory 4 bolts holding the tank brackets, 1 gas delivery pipe, a gauge wire, and I think a wire to the solenoid, I lifted mine out , then there's a round plate with about 8 or more Philip head screws, and the pump access it under that. Make sure you undo the fuel cap first as the pressure will force the fuel out then you undo the petrol delivery pipe. I used big 3 screw drivers to under the pump ring, two vertical and one through them to undo the ring ...Bee-utey hopefully will fill in anything I've left out. Gary

Originally Posted by mandala1111

Thanks bee utey.
At the moment I can't see where the fuel tank pump access panel is,could anyone enlighten me as where exactly it is.
Cheers

Draw an imaginary line through the petrol tank filler pipe, and another down the centreline of the vehicle, the hatch is where the two lines meet.

Ok I have the gas tanks sitting nicely out of the way and have accessed the pump top housing,can anyone help with how to get the large plastic ring off it's as tight as all buggery.Also regarding the wiring to the pump,should I be getting a permanent power supply to the pump or just when the key is turned to on ? I remember in my old Classic that the power was on for a second only when the key was turned on and engine not running.Trying to figure out if it's a wiring problem or not,one of the terminals to the pump is a little bit fried and the engine bay fuse was also blown.
Cheers

You can shift the locking ring using a hammer and a flat screwdriver or similar flat piece of steel. Move the tool to a new lug as often as possible to not break them off. You can also make a tool using flat steel bent to engage the lugs on both sides, and a big nut welded to the middle to drive the tool with a socket set. Blow the dust out from the pump ring first as it will get into the tank.

Now the wiring: there are a number of connectors that melt when a pump is left in too long. A worn pump draws more current than the circuit is designed to handle. The next connector along is above the rear exhaust resonator. There are undoubtedly more, such as in the connector between the dash harness and the rear end harness. Any one of them can melt to failure point. The wire concerned is consistently marked white/purple stripe along its length and any unreachable failed connection can be bridged by soldering in a new wire acrosss the damage point.

If possible I would replace the short harness between the pump and the connector above the resonator and also the pump housing. Find one off a wrecked D1. A heat damaged connector will never be 100% trustworthy. The connector above the resonator can be removed and the wires soldered and heat shrinked if needed.

Not saying this will all happen to you, just across a large number of D1/RRC pump failures I've come across all of these wiring failures too. Pumps are a service item and should be replaced before they die. Judging this moment is kind of difficult though. Putting gas on means people are more inclined to ignore an intermittently dying pump though.

Thanks bee utey.
I managed to get the pump ring off using a wrecking bar with a bit of a tap.I checked the pump and it is still working fine although I haven't checked with multi meter yet as my meter battery has died.Anyway looks like a tedious task of tracking down the wiring fault now.One area I have been disturbing a bit of wiring lately is around the battery due to a flat battery over the last month and I have been removing the battery a bit to put on my charger once a week,is there any fuel pump related wiring in the battery area? I am not looking forward to tracking down the wiring fault as electricals is not my strong point and I live 45 kms from town and don't have enough gas to get me there for anyone else to look at it,so basically stranded until I get the fuel running.Also are there any other fuel pump fuses as well as the fuse in the engine bay fuse/fusable link box next to the battery.
Cheers